tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-30198830178093471332024-02-19T04:10:35.953-08:00A Madmans's Mod SiteEverything the RC Mod Man knows about radio control modeling. In today's world of RTF foam aircraft, making modifications and adding stuff so that your plane is uniquely yours is half the fun. The Mod Man explains all aspects of the RC hobby covering subjects like selecting a plane, what you will find when you un-box it, setting it up, making modifications and flying your favorite RC aircraft. If it ain't broke, he'll still fix it.Chuck Petershttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09726983071505840260noreply@blogger.comBlogger22125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3019883017809347133.post-10413136585669108422011-08-31T13:07:00.000-07:002011-08-31T13:07:36.138-07:00Homemade Field Box<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRtWHH6jKgonf4BkS9fSrW6VxWwn8J6u5IY8_EpfLcvERpPpPdEKFDdp3ZWDuyiqSHvk2pS1NWxHjut0fLyYf_Ry26gCYulDrFCcTl6ucSSDZO5VwjnHewi2MdIRfbtvizclxbYSCSL0rG/s1600/fieldbox.gif" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRtWHH6jKgonf4BkS9fSrW6VxWwn8J6u5IY8_EpfLcvERpPpPdEKFDdp3ZWDuyiqSHvk2pS1NWxHjut0fLyYf_Ry26gCYulDrFCcTl6ucSSDZO5VwjnHewi2MdIRfbtvizclxbYSCSL0rG/s400/fieldbox.gif" width="322" /></a></div>This wooden field box is easy to build, inexpensive and is perfect for getting all the stuff you need to start your nitro bird up to the flight line.<br />
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It is designed to carry a gallon jug of fuel, Starter with a 12 volt gel cell battery, glo plug igniter, fuel pump and a few hand tools. <br />
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All the materials I needed for this project were available at my local home improvement store for under $15.00 not including paint. I had enough material left over to build a second box. I'll be painting mine with some epoxy paint I have around the shop as it will protect the wood from any nitro spills.<br />
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<b>Materials:</b><br />
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(1) 1"x10"x6'Pine Board<br />
(1) 1"3"x8' Pine Board<br />
A handful of 1-5/8" sheetrock screws.<br />
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<b>Tools Used:</b><br />
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Skill Saw<br />
Jig Saw<br />
Drill & Bits<br />
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<b>Consumables:</b><br />
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Sand Paper<br />
Wood Glue<br />
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<b>Plans:</b><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKFuAyLUcFWkYQz8D2I7ITt_jlzt54pjjTPmjh9NwV3P7jAF4MYMnBCKTUIDqdp6xrgG0-Apmqy5LFlniCIcBVU7-9dy7DLSlI2DcTMibUtoStJkWgqTIQmb1z2l5JqaDJFW_z-pa6j-mx/s1600/fieldboxdwg.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="598" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKFuAyLUcFWkYQz8D2I7ITt_jlzt54pjjTPmjh9NwV3P7jAF4MYMnBCKTUIDqdp6xrgG0-Apmqy5LFlniCIcBVU7-9dy7DLSlI2DcTMibUtoStJkWgqTIQmb1z2l5JqaDJFW_z-pa6j-mx/s640/fieldboxdwg.png" width="600" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Click Image for Larger View</td></tr>
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Chuck Petershttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09726983071505840260noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3019883017809347133.post-42222901698502474152011-08-11T21:05:00.000-07:002011-08-11T21:05:31.862-07:00ParkzoneT-28 Trojan Motor Upgrade<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLakWbH9LX_WMc6RwxX3uwcC-saaSRWC9wv875Pmvoq-nm87v5ViLnCj5RU5Ai2YYeap1DZuHTWdXqiQieKoxUWhb5T_xPUttoo-_-9IrJ1TTRf-0fWE2JeDW2vRf0zjJ-HVRMVmqPxfde/s1600/p10.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLakWbH9LX_WMc6RwxX3uwcC-saaSRWC9wv875Pmvoq-nm87v5ViLnCj5RU5Ai2YYeap1DZuHTWdXqiQieKoxUWhb5T_xPUttoo-_-9IrJ1TTRf-0fWE2JeDW2vRf0zjJ-HVRMVmqPxfde/s400/p10.jpg" width="267" /></a></div>Deciding what motor, prop, ESC and battery combination to use when up-grading your Parkzone T-28 Trojan can be a difficult task.<br />
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After much research, here is the equipment I decided to put in mine. While not the cheapest alternative, this setup is simple to install and does not leave any question whether the components are capable of handling the task.<br />
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For a power plant I chose E-Flite's Power 10 brushless outrunner motor. Weighing in at 122g (4.3oz) it is not so heavy as to make your T28 a flying brick. Designed for a current draw of 32A and a maximum burst current of 42A the stock speed control might handle the current draw, again I say "might" but a higher capacity ESC is a much better choice. Even though a 45A speed control would give you adequate head room, I chose to use the <a href="http://www.castlecreations.com/products/phoenix_ice.html">Castle Creations Ice 50</a>.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlD2jY7c7OdH0eZH_SUb8PIXhKMnq6zeIy8KkNYRHl6FpHybYOrHE2qdJSqjlz6pZ7hBW1W2zuEwd_p7LETV6LexfEvu5idKRMKAaa8_IFIirCCkNIQ9dXoIbKOTiJwjjBHhEWt_LVH38O/s1600/ice50.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear:right; float:right; margin-left:1em; margin-bottom:1em"><img border="0" height="169" width="76" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlD2jY7c7OdH0eZH_SUb8PIXhKMnq6zeIy8KkNYRHl6FpHybYOrHE2qdJSqjlz6pZ7hBW1W2zuEwd_p7LETV6LexfEvu5idKRMKAaa8_IFIirCCkNIQ9dXoIbKOTiJwjjBHhEWt_LVH38O/s320/ice50.jpg" /></a></div><br />
If you go this route you will have to do some soldering. The Ice 50 come with no battery or bullet connectors for the motor. It includes a 5amp switching BEC to power your receiver and servos as well as providing you with extensive data logging capabilities. It can also be used with Castle Creations quick link giving you the ability to program the controller via your computer through a USB port. The only draw back to this great ESC is that it's a little on the heavy side.<br />
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One reason for using the Power 10 is it's size. It is a direct replacement for the stock motor. You won't need to shim anything or trim the cowl to install. I have read of users having the stock plastic mount break under the added torque. If you decide to use the stock mount, it would be a good idea to reinforce the 4 standoffs with epoxy as this seems to be where the mount tends to breaks. For my T28, I chose to upgrade to an aluminum mount as sold by <a href="http://www.customrcparts.com">Custom RC Parts.</a> They make mounts for just about any motor you might want to put in your T28 as well as other Parkzone airplanes. You will not have any worries with this mount and they include all the hardware necessary for installation.<br />
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Now for the selection of a prop and battery. I ran several different prop selections through <a href="http://brantuas.com/ezcalc/dma1.asp">Electric Motor Calculator</a> to get an idea of what prop would work the best and decided to try a APC 10x7. I did some testing and found that the stock set-up produced 216 watts drawing 20.24 amps. The Power 10 with the 10x7 produced 360 watts at 34 amps. With the new amp draw you will want run at least a 2200mah battery with minimum C rating of 20. I still get a good 8 minute flight with this combination giving the T-28 a marked improvement in speed and vertical thrust.<br />
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The only drawback to this combination is that of weight. With the added nose weight it was necessary to cut some of the foam from the bottom of the canopy and move the battery back to get the COG right. I also found it necessary to add a wooden support and velcro strap to secure the 2250mah batteries I was using in this rearward position. Checkout <a href="http://rcmodman.blogspot.com/2011/08/extended-battery-tray-for-t28.html">this post</a> for more details on the extended battery tray.<br />
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Chuck Petershttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09726983071505840260noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3019883017809347133.post-16974753940042993842011-08-11T07:19:00.000-07:002011-08-11T07:19:35.913-07:00Extended Battery Tray for T28Having upgraded my Parkzone T-28 Trojan with a Power 10 motor, I found it was quite nose heavy. In order to move the center of gravity back, it was necessary to shift the battery aft to a point that it was no longer comfortably held in place by the stock foam sleeve. Not wanting to see what happens when a battery hits the eject button, I chose to install an extended battery tray.<br />
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To construct this tray I started with a piece of basswood 1/8"x 1-1/4" cut so that it fit snugly between the fuselage sides. Roughly four inches long. Then I cut two slots into this piece spaced apart the width of my batteries. I then took a standard 6" velcro battery strap and looped it down, under and back up through the slots in the tray as shown below. Then I mixed up a batch of 5 minute epoxy and glued the tray and strap down directly behind the foam bulkhead. It was also necessary to carve out some of the foam from the bottom of the canopy so the battery could be slide back.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivhPpv3EbPDqf0V0pplhY-Z4DXUsSTQhTe9h7PLjjULubTToxBrY7-AkbssP2mB6fH21mej_vNLlFY8wESks3p_vHktpSczJWt2Eg_TP5EWc0zxXE6X1styGSojyseA6GVtWJZyKKfZ40_/s1600/strap.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivhPpv3EbPDqf0V0pplhY-Z4DXUsSTQhTe9h7PLjjULubTToxBrY7-AkbssP2mB6fH21mej_vNLlFY8wESks3p_vHktpSczJWt2Eg_TP5EWc0zxXE6X1styGSojyseA6GVtWJZyKKfZ40_/s400/strap.png" width="317" /></a></div><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Top View of the Extended Tray</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPtz9vFwQ2S2YJsgLg4cdtoUqpfumD0s78heEOZ2h6ijdGZ0OqwkLsnMCPpPhYgiYzAsbD1c-FMXJCKfbsxa173yHq5xKyIIQLRFD4zNocbTPWCqTZnNcLnwgtSfUyNjeGxNfdILsm7YWM/s1600/strap2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="364" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPtz9vFwQ2S2YJsgLg4cdtoUqpfumD0s78heEOZ2h6ijdGZ0OqwkLsnMCPpPhYgiYzAsbD1c-FMXJCKfbsxa173yHq5xKyIIQLRFD4zNocbTPWCqTZnNcLnwgtSfUyNjeGxNfdILsm7YWM/s400/strap2.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">End View of the Tray</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJu0X8dm-WkL3HSchKmQmtjEKiul8nquoQtaeIiRxezMhjGlG6agjXghc0qccSDz6Q749k2CI_wexyCqHOxENnAjicbGXvK0WLlN6BxZ4V7gfNLhhaJ9IPd5xQl9y6SpNBXtRF42N20xr4/s1600/canopy.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="241" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJu0X8dm-WkL3HSchKmQmtjEKiul8nquoQtaeIiRxezMhjGlG6agjXghc0qccSDz6Q749k2CI_wexyCqHOxENnAjicbGXvK0WLlN6BxZ4V7gfNLhhaJ9IPd5xQl9y6SpNBXtRF42N20xr4/s400/canopy.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Bottom of Canopy Showing Foam Removal</td></tr>
</tbody></table>I've had over 100 flights with this extended tray and several crashed and the battery has always remained secured in place. Even if your running a stock set-up and don't need to move the CG back, this extended tray is a great added safety measure to keep your battery secure.<br />
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Tags:<!-- google_ad_section_start --><br />
T28 Trojan, RC, airplane, Lipo battery,<br />
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Chuck Petershttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09726983071505840260noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3019883017809347133.post-87664950570863644322011-08-10T13:36:00.000-07:002011-08-10T13:36:08.956-07:00Replacing the Motor and Gearbox in PZ UM P51The motor and gearbox for Parkzone's Ultra Micro P51 can be easily replaced. If you plan on replacing both the gearbox and motor, you will need part# PKZ3624. The gearbox only is part# PKZ3527 and the motor only is part# PKZ3616. You can find a complete list of replacement parts for this aircraft <a href="http://www.parkzone.com/Products/RelatedParts.aspx?ProdID=PKZ3600&Category=Parts%20Listing&SubCategory=">here.</a><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHyOtCESBq_ZXTmO86q1u198PYVVAs6LijPcTLZTMnJPRAlhCzwp0S8ZoGErOpWQeJ6FjtR3rVpo_6bLAKbKMzp9kMIvTkikUszo16NfgLrsLwAawPlYmfdfhjUFku3KHQkescNcNP9saw/s1600/IMG_0155.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHyOtCESBq_ZXTmO86q1u198PYVVAs6LijPcTLZTMnJPRAlhCzwp0S8ZoGErOpWQeJ6FjtR3rVpo_6bLAKbKMzp9kMIvTkikUszo16NfgLrsLwAawPlYmfdfhjUFku3KHQkescNcNP9saw/s400/IMG_0155.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">New Motor, Gearbox, Prop and Spinner From Horizon Hobby</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">New Motor and Gearbox Ready for Installation</td></tr>
</tbody></table>To gain access to the internal components you have to take an Xacto knife and cut along the seam cutting through the decal on each side and along the rear of the top fuselage half.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqL-4fxUP7c2SC1UUDh3iWtUEuf8QEYNrBpoldFeZK5GI0cHN3XRwO4xvx2Gwuvnax7AVyxIBRJZP17-EeqdKngnGcZ-NBGaG_hYeQ32XLaS6XsiMaQBKeuuBaVogdcYt4KstbpHjFNwMB/s1600/IMG_0172.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqL-4fxUP7c2SC1UUDh3iWtUEuf8QEYNrBpoldFeZK5GI0cHN3XRwO4xvx2Gwuvnax7AVyxIBRJZP17-EeqdKngnGcZ-NBGaG_hYeQ32XLaS6XsiMaQBKeuuBaVogdcYt4KstbpHjFNwMB/s400/IMG_0172.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Fuselage Access</td></tr>
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Once you have access to the motor area you again take you Xacto knife and cut along the foam at along the areas shown in red below to separate the caulking used to secure the gearbox in place. You will also need to separate a couple of areas of caulking that secure the wiring.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhL7kRBX9x9tIqQtjiHQvqS76KCQh-o-3O3SvA_1drHsWdOwhpzyhJky7eVlVkGyHd2kbR2JyASo-sN6eCaYw9_CaMMc0DW8BF-LjgTpuTgqlUDQbMSqOJ5_-C3wrUXZl1oG-BXvmF9wHj/s1600/cut+lines.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhL7kRBX9x9tIqQtjiHQvqS76KCQh-o-3O3SvA_1drHsWdOwhpzyhJky7eVlVkGyHd2kbR2JyASo-sN6eCaYw9_CaMMc0DW8BF-LjgTpuTgqlUDQbMSqOJ5_-C3wrUXZl1oG-BXvmF9wHj/s400/cut+lines.png" width="400" /></a></div><br />
Once you have the gearbox, motor and wiring separated from the caulking, you will need to unplug the motor wires from the rear of the receiver. Note that the white wire is inboard and that the plug uses the out board two pins. Be sure to use tweezers to unplug the JST plug. Don't pull on the wires to remove the plug as this can break the wiring to the plug.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Photo shows the two pronged male plug removed from the reciever</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCoh8PnR4ORgz-qYzatNlCHwbffsg-k4icLBVeaH-WncIivDsw2NwdcamOXhbnp-zfLiLQmCQgLVcnXCrQfxoHcigYcUMrBHsop7jj-GwRbwLenPL0qTAFgmwuYetHKMz3LHBcLNTxrPZJ/s1600/IMG_0163.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCoh8PnR4ORgz-qYzatNlCHwbffsg-k4icLBVeaH-WncIivDsw2NwdcamOXhbnp-zfLiLQmCQgLVcnXCrQfxoHcigYcUMrBHsop7jj-GwRbwLenPL0qTAFgmwuYetHKMz3LHBcLNTxrPZJ/s400/IMG_0163.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Old Motor removed from the fuselage</td></tr>
</tbody></table>At this point you will want to plug the new motor in and see that it runs with no problems. If so, lay down a layer of adhesive caulking along the fuselage sides where the gearbox mounts. Press the new gearbox and motor into this layer of caulk. Route motor wire along the side of the fuselage and under receiver circuit board. Plug the wiring into the the receiver and secure the wiring along the side of the fuselage with a couple of dabs of caulking. Also pull the motor wiring under the receiver to one side and secure it with a dab of caulk so that the wires are away from the aileron servo motor gear. <br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVgO7_-K2QXa6irGqq5L4SR0NPshs5Pmfwn_h5LhO82eGO800CeqEQJOwbF7fsinY5iXd59DpjvkX4rtN5fKiGy1tW0orUE1mFzyeVK1v2mFIzhi44q_UFm6L-vzk6tUyZ299UXNcLDNJy/s1600/IMG_0165.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVgO7_-K2QXa6irGqq5L4SR0NPshs5Pmfwn_h5LhO82eGO800CeqEQJOwbF7fsinY5iXd59DpjvkX4rtN5fKiGy1tW0orUE1mFzyeVK1v2mFIzhi44q_UFm6L-vzk6tUyZ299UXNcLDNJy/s400/IMG_0165.JPG" width="400" /></a></div><br />
Put a second layer of caulking over top of the gear box flanges Allow the caulking to dry at least 24 hours before starting up the motor or putting any strain on the power system. The additional wires you see in the photos are for the navigaional lights that I added. The balsa cross members are an attempt to reinforce a badly deformed fuselage nose.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhOlPLzFOv-6IBetpvVyrpnrcZ2TdM_4xYkpKoaciLDfCyBL1PpbVKYZfl0O9MKcvwpHqhUGpjObILHmDz7gKWER0TUPEDUlPwrF6N-JXeu-iDvSnt6v6reyJGqmZ4dkfFHW_Lu45vHuurX/s1600/IMG_0170.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhOlPLzFOv-6IBetpvVyrpnrcZ2TdM_4xYkpKoaciLDfCyBL1PpbVKYZfl0O9MKcvwpHqhUGpjObILHmDz7gKWER0TUPEDUlPwrF6N-JXeu-iDvSnt6v6reyJGqmZ4dkfFHW_Lu45vHuurX/s400/IMG_0170.JPG" width="400" /></a></div><br />
All that's left to do is put the fuselage top back on, secure it with a few pieces of Scotch tape and your motor replacement is finished.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXWyY9i0eOxG9C3sI8s1G4CfDCRZTTrA-AWEl3wWxoGN8nuCFqV1KOTNBDCijRA8QzDEM3SQNgexM1gHJ3nu9DDBPY5I57Ty0AYii3ecmPBD_MJBDM3SW0o-kC7zD1gVXteozs4Zkikseg/s1600/p51.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left:1em; margin-right:1em"><img border="0" height="400" width="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXWyY9i0eOxG9C3sI8s1G4CfDCRZTTrA-AWEl3wWxoGN8nuCFqV1KOTNBDCijRA8QzDEM3SQNgexM1gHJ3nu9DDBPY5I57Ty0AYii3ecmPBD_MJBDM3SW0o-kC7zD1gVXteozs4Zkikseg/s400/p51.jpg" /></a></div><!-- google_ad_section_start --><br />
Tags:Parkzone P51 Ultra Micro, RC, Radio Control, Airplane, Hobby<br />
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Chuck Petershttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09726983071505840260noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3019883017809347133.post-65640025771118224712011-08-09T10:12:00.000-07:002011-08-11T09:29:38.801-07:00Fixing Ultra Micro Servo ProblemA problem I came across while flying my Parkzone Ultra Micro P51 RC airplane was that of a failed aileron servo. While flying the servo just locked up and the plane fell from the sky. At first the problem was intermittent, the servo would work and then just stall. Finally it locked up all together and I thought I would have to replace it.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjELh9fpYHcjkPPbvCEGw4SiUpTgfS_qea9KRSAL5xM0gtsIfMCaAJlvoD8ErvKl-FAODKjTrptFJsJf13ANk3MNePlJ7Xb8ZH9RTgAOKuE9Cas9REOPaJAgUUCt6ZKR1n0Mwzk40QiQIIk/s1600/PZ_Ultra_Micro_Servo.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="563" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjELh9fpYHcjkPPbvCEGw4SiUpTgfS_qea9KRSAL5xM0gtsIfMCaAJlvoD8ErvKl-FAODKjTrptFJsJf13ANk3MNePlJ7Xb8ZH9RTgAOKuE9Cas9REOPaJAgUUCt6ZKR1n0Mwzk40QiQIIk/s640/PZ_Ultra_Micro_Servo.png" alt="Parkzone Ultra Micro P51 Servo" width="600" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><h2><span style="font-size: large;">Spektrum AS2000 Linear Servo</span></h2></td></tr>
</tbody></table>After doing some research, I found that other UM P51 owners had the same problem and fixed it by lubricating the screw assembly of the servo. From experience with RC helicopters, I know that it's not a good Idea to oil plastic parts. It might be a temporary fix, but in the long run, the oil will attract more dirt and cause an even bigger problem.<br />
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I found that by taking the end of my Xacto knife and carefully rotating the Screw Gear, I could get the servo to re-center and start to move again. It was still locking up each time I tried moving the ailerons, so I was pretty sure the problem was a small partial of dirt getting caught in the screw assembly and locking up the works. I broke out a blow gun and attached it to my compressor along with a small length of tubing that I attached to the nozzle of the blow gun. I then blasted air into screw assembly on either side of the linear slide all the while using my radio to move the slide back and forth. Each time the servo would lock, I could take the Xacto to the Screw gear and get it going again. After a minute or so of this, I was able to dislodge what ever was causing the problem and the servo has been operating fine ever since. This is not the cure all of servo repair, but is worth a try before going to the expense of replacing your servo.<br />
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If you think this might be your problem, but don't have an air compressor, no worry. You can buy a can of compressed air at your local office supply store. Typically sold for cleaning computer components, they come with a little spray tube nozzle that will work perfectly for cleaning your servo so you can get back in the air quickly.<br />
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Tags:<!-- google_ad_section_start --> Ultra Micro P51, Radio Control, RC, Airplane<br />
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Chuck Petershttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09726983071505840260noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3019883017809347133.post-76660505624645734832011-08-08T18:12:00.000-07:002011-08-08T18:22:08.919-07:00Ultra Micro P51 Nav Lights<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTz2A5Z3vabWvsC-WJYt2UV1Y_h_Q0MeVkP-eW24Fi0lczVFwVSZSHRTTfCY35aFyTv9saFq8j6-E5_XfDK1lV87GG1hu-unLgfu1zsxYGUPAti7cEs7N0Kgrh8N6wj-F7t-EnJ3fdPnHX/s1600/IMG_0153.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTz2A5Z3vabWvsC-WJYt2UV1Y_h_Q0MeVkP-eW24Fi0lczVFwVSZSHRTTfCY35aFyTv9saFq8j6-E5_XfDK1lV87GG1hu-unLgfu1zsxYGUPAti7cEs7N0Kgrh8N6wj-F7t-EnJ3fdPnHX/s320/IMG_0153.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>A great modification for your Parkzone Ultra Micro P51 is the addition of navigational lights. This lets you fly at dusk, a time of day when the wind typically dies down. If your daring, you could also try night flight. I found a great deal on a L.E.D. kit at <a href="http://www.sf-design-solutions.com/default.html">S.F. Design Solutions</a>, $15.00 includes shipping . The kit consists of red and green wing-tip nav lights with a blue or white tail light and white landing light. The lights are very easy to install, you just open up the fuselage, plug in the wiring harness, route the wires and your ready to take to the night skies.<br />
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The kit includes <a href="http://www.sf-design-solutions.com/PZ%20UMx%20P-51%20Install.pdf">step by step instructions</a>, but I've included a few photos and a detail of how I routed my wires. If you have never opened up your P51, it requires that you take a Xacto knife and cut through the decals on the fuselage sides and rear of the radio compartment so that you can remove the top to expose the motor, servos and AR6400 receiver.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinCwfGKB3fVik6EI-i0Mpifnk8WEB5J3rcH3Ar48nlGXjt5ZYvDkM9L_5LyfULrLzSxad59sngaTnpgoeCZTvFhrJYsITZwAoskvAP3zRZ3c0_WG4-PO_NyULLvwCZAQoQZpQFIdEh1i4K/s1600/IMG_0125.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinCwfGKB3fVik6EI-i0Mpifnk8WEB5J3rcH3Ar48nlGXjt5ZYvDkM9L_5LyfULrLzSxad59sngaTnpgoeCZTvFhrJYsITZwAoskvAP3zRZ3c0_WG4-PO_NyULLvwCZAQoQZpQFIdEh1i4K/s400/IMG_0125.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Kit as received from SF Design Solutions</td></tr>
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Below you can see where I have opened the radio compartment and plugged the lights into my receiver to see that they are working properly.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5ugLDp08_TTmk_romqwZ6tjDL4-sn-YfUpdmlziVvfLMef5_uZBK7VanWC3hgv-l1hHlrj8qf5esklPOCb68MnoS-HJK-qoz8A9-lF5Ej3YifGNuCL580wUP4OHXZLnXnQ1kVxlJlc8D-/s1600/IMG_0126.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5ugLDp08_TTmk_romqwZ6tjDL4-sn-YfUpdmlziVvfLMef5_uZBK7VanWC3hgv-l1hHlrj8qf5esklPOCb68MnoS-HJK-qoz8A9-lF5Ej3YifGNuCL580wUP4OHXZLnXnQ1kVxlJlc8D-/s400/IMG_0126.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Testing the lights prior to installation</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjoX4l1EDnkedrnk1etaJ_O6CSmsPzpyMudRRXid7Mwz4EW5fA4dk76QpCKPvAfTLsqmaYBKDwqunWTaotC8v2vQ_4fFhoQCIQ_tENUHQR3bA6jZ2EcBJsJe9IkDegbGB0-BOtIToErps2M/s1600/navlightp51.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="470" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjoX4l1EDnkedrnk1etaJ_O6CSmsPzpyMudRRXid7Mwz4EW5fA4dk76QpCKPvAfTLsqmaYBKDwqunWTaotC8v2vQ_4fFhoQCIQ_tENUHQR3bA6jZ2EcBJsJe9IkDegbGB0-BOtIToErps2M/s640/navlightp51.png" width="600" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Click Image for Larger View</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIzQOVt1mPd6LVukI1qiiy6Q93TNAOChIRHAAAHmcvqWvhqm0VXV9roL6TE3aWn2YkqP3mcdE1Xxp6n591x151vPvRcsyiGMKjSWwq80dZSw8TXow0EZCihH5OEav5tPB8TS8vSzUrC5-y/s1600/IMG_0136.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIzQOVt1mPd6LVukI1qiiy6Q93TNAOChIRHAAAHmcvqWvhqm0VXV9roL6TE3aWn2YkqP3mcdE1Xxp6n591x151vPvRcsyiGMKjSWwq80dZSw8TXow0EZCihH5OEav5tPB8TS8vSzUrC5-y/s400/IMG_0136.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Pulling the tail LED out of the fuselage thru the vent hole</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjKNWmhOoMSsaCPZEXuSWr91QyM9epjnarFmcVQwhZK0mD34wIItcTo9AzYGu7cfEdizrLX8l-KmkQSRcYmvy7l2HAQI5DKzjYRnETdf4PuSjrRYR6AaKCL-JM5IVC8pnQYSgM0E92fDcRj/s1600/IMG_0174.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjKNWmhOoMSsaCPZEXuSWr91QyM9epjnarFmcVQwhZK0mD34wIItcTo9AzYGu7cfEdizrLX8l-KmkQSRcYmvy7l2HAQI5DKzjYRnETdf4PuSjrRYR6AaKCL-JM5IVC8pnQYSgM0E92fDcRj/s400/IMG_0174.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Tail light installed and anchored with tape</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjydqV8pHXSPOsag-ZfVssX1nRok-8N75WM98M3qhT-OMtdH4nmoZkfhGGA3fPwQh1OSm6EEB6Ui2d5gNZOeorwvydrNkv6AZk8MEUCkeaQuJDyuw_dMnc_tBkCiJ7o2p7KRsefYVniGYIF/s1600/IMG_0177.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjydqV8pHXSPOsag-ZfVssX1nRok-8N75WM98M3qhT-OMtdH4nmoZkfhGGA3fPwQh1OSm6EEB6Ui2d5gNZOeorwvydrNkv6AZk8MEUCkeaQuJDyuw_dMnc_tBkCiJ7o2p7KRsefYVniGYIF/s400/IMG_0177.JPG" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Wires for wing lights exiting thru forward vent hole</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEidKrk1gQ-t6_x2GIraO_t1IajOkUAQE7aqetVyLH6_jnE8pNUIh-Ay7bOG2pDyniuqrnYVLrDOywGAwUCFjSRcsbQIRNdXQhZloS1zd_W7PP2HPBixvdqdt4iEj_5Fc1m6HdTdgYp99hdv/s1600/IMG_0180.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEidKrk1gQ-t6_x2GIraO_t1IajOkUAQE7aqetVyLH6_jnE8pNUIh-Ay7bOG2pDyniuqrnYVLrDOywGAwUCFjSRcsbQIRNdXQhZloS1zd_W7PP2HPBixvdqdt4iEj_5Fc1m6HdTdgYp99hdv/s400/IMG_0180.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Wing wire installed and anchored with tape</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTuEwNQ76yX6Tc7TcJjUoxxPqdGmPb_1pJJ08DsLxf_iJcdpxExM47J6dQEOHL_DbKtM-ZPoHGnKU3rs2LdPL6KJfAzFPqmtrX9OlgQJlSU1qgCQ138R9Atp9OAlhZBGkK5cbBLRZSXCei/s1600/IMG_0197.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTuEwNQ76yX6Tc7TcJjUoxxPqdGmPb_1pJJ08DsLxf_iJcdpxExM47J6dQEOHL_DbKtM-ZPoHGnKU3rs2LdPL6KJfAzFPqmtrX9OlgQJlSU1qgCQ138R9Atp9OAlhZBGkK5cbBLRZSXCei/s400/IMG_0197.JPG" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Landing Light mounted at bottom of fuselage under the prop</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdHzNiJoUOe67a-rfl7gdIoN8c9ZYwsGaBzmYZuI_jMiAQOSmsppPHuqgsc35KRU3xBrRDW8Dme_5bRBL-eUVzEEh-ewhmoLBO6GPcycmz-9iM7tJliFrmoIvcXOTiAdCWqVL3120G__0f/s1600/IMG_0203+copy.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="229" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdHzNiJoUOe67a-rfl7gdIoN8c9ZYwsGaBzmYZuI_jMiAQOSmsppPHuqgsc35KRU3xBrRDW8Dme_5bRBL-eUVzEEh-ewhmoLBO6GPcycmz-9iM7tJliFrmoIvcXOTiAdCWqVL3120G__0f/s640/IMG_0203+copy.jpg" width="600" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ready For Takeoff</td></tr>
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Chuck Petershttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09726983071505840260noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3019883017809347133.post-59385565262666542512011-08-04T13:08:00.000-07:002011-08-04T13:29:05.253-07:00Senior Telemaster Build, Power and Fuel ( Part Six)<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjn54HqBimqm51exHtAwk7OBB9PGAqvPePC0ZHjxuB6MpnnVAO6gX1sA9raIo3fp1WpR5axLaPSG0Jk_NaQCLJad88gUzgt3KPeDDHwlEAkZoIRRw_vRpTKjGDr1lgmjw8to5zWb6rE7Sp7/s1600/039+copye.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjn54HqBimqm51exHtAwk7OBB9PGAqvPePC0ZHjxuB6MpnnVAO6gX1sA9raIo3fp1WpR5axLaPSG0Jk_NaQCLJad88gUzgt3KPeDDHwlEAkZoIRRw_vRpTKjGDr1lgmjw8to5zWb6rE7Sp7/s640/039+copye.jpg" width="610" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Photo by D. Reifsnider</td></tr>
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In part six and the last in our series on building the Senior Telemaster, I'll briefly go over the engine and fuel system that I have used in this plane. For a power plant, I chose the O.S. 91 FS Surpass II. With it being a four stroke, it's a little heaver than what the designer had intended, but still a tried and proven engine for this plane.<br />
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<b>SPECIFICATIONS</b><br />
<b>Stock Number:</b> OSMG0890<br />
<b>Displacement:</b> 0.912 cu in (14.95 cc)<br />
<b>Bore:</b> 1.091 in (27.7 mm)<br />
<b>Stroke:</b> 0.976 in (24.8 mm)<br />
<b>Practical rpm:</b> 2,000-12,000<br />
<b>Output:</b> 1.6 hp @ 11,000 rpm<br />
<b>Weight w/muffler & manifold:</b> 23.9 oz. (678 g)<br />
<b>Weight w/o muffler & manifold:</b> 22.2 oz. (630 g)<br />
<b>Recommended Props:</b> Stunt: 11x10, 11x11, 12x9.5, 12x10, 12x11; Scale: 13.5x8, 14x7, 15x6, 16x6, 12x8 3-blade, 12.5x7 3-blade<br />
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I chose to run a Master Airscrew 15x6 K Series G/F Nylon Propeller. The fuel tank is a Sullivan Slant Tank 12 oz. that is surrounded by foam rubber so that it sets at the top of the fuel tank compartment.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEie0sqEhe6H0tydhhTHhKSrwd9iL7OSSIDrLVpjDtRwMvFgTR_lhBCU37K_JDFiHsz70Iv8ZqcvM4DvVdUE2wvvLN03QVW3pm-bW4JrpkdkFiBSE4uO6NVQ6EO_JLoxS-rkZu2oWQoJaoJg/s1600/IMG_0003.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEie0sqEhe6H0tydhhTHhKSrwd9iL7OSSIDrLVpjDtRwMvFgTR_lhBCU37K_JDFiHsz70Iv8ZqcvM4DvVdUE2wvvLN03QVW3pm-bW4JrpkdkFiBSE4uO6NVQ6EO_JLoxS-rkZu2oWQoJaoJg/s320/IMG_0003.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Fuel Compartment</td></tr>
</tbody></table><br />
Silicone fuel tubing is routed through the firewall with the supply line being equipped with a Great Planes Ultra Precision Fuel Filter. Homemade barbs were added to the copper fuel lines exiting the tank by wrapping the ends with fine copper sire and then apply a bead of solder over the wire. All internal lines were then secured with Great Planes wire fuel line clamps.<br />
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The throttle linkage consists of a Sullivan Gold-N-Rod from the Hitec HS-485HB servo out through the firewall where I used a Du-Bro # 665 4-Stroke Throttle linkage system for connection to the carb. The Du-Bro linkage was needed as the carb on the OS is rear mounted and sets very close the the firewall and does not leave enough room to mount the linkage directly.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhH20aIvJrYP3YjumLZrGeo8D1YOr_OeRDpzHjdmyPy2uE5abUUaHhYGS0SVNqxp_9EnfNC4YooDpnYk1HUTDVj90fMWYsgV5eOBgQFeJG_o-vLZbJ1i98DLKpeIgzMeE0iBLOm_XCu2vlh/s1600/IMG_0097.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhH20aIvJrYP3YjumLZrGeo8D1YOr_OeRDpzHjdmyPy2uE5abUUaHhYGS0SVNqxp_9EnfNC4YooDpnYk1HUTDVj90fMWYsgV5eOBgQFeJG_o-vLZbJ1i98DLKpeIgzMeE0iBLOm_XCu2vlh/s320/IMG_0097.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOTSRmKUkFBZThsScyUD7H7p8_Z_b-00RLJDvxcKIQU5xVI05qyz4s62NsQXOxL1H65JWu5KaHvTkR1dcFRHoPe67WnxYcOAOhbMIojEVZr6i3_gC7MjVeWY80HYVSXnMO_eqoX4lMF4WH/s1600/IMG_0005.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOTSRmKUkFBZThsScyUD7H7p8_Z_b-00RLJDvxcKIQU5xVI05qyz4s62NsQXOxL1H65JWu5KaHvTkR1dcFRHoPe67WnxYcOAOhbMIojEVZr6i3_gC7MjVeWY80HYVSXnMO_eqoX4lMF4WH/s400/IMG_0005.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Installed Throttle Linkage<br />
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I hope you have enjoyed this article as much as I enjoyed building this classic RC airplane. To close it out, I'll leave you with a video of some engine testing that was done prior to getting this lady airborne.<br />
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<iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="492" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/fHOAeEn1NDs" width="600"></iframe><br />
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<ol><li><a href="http://rcmodman.blogspot.com/2011/06/senior-telemaster-build-part-one.html"> Part One, Wing</a></li>
<li><a href="http://rcmodman.blogspot.com/2011/07/senior-telemaster-build-tail-feathers.html">Part Two, Tail Feathers</a></li>
<li><a href="http://rcmodman.blogspot.com/2011/08/senior-telemaster-build-part-3-fuselage.html">Part Three, Fuselage</a></li>
<li><a href="http://rcmodman.blogspot.com/2011/08/senior-telemaster-build-wing-struts.html">Part Four, Wing Struts</a></li>
<li><a href="http://rcmodman.blogspot.com/2011/08/senior-telemaster-build-wing-attachment.html">Part Five, Wing Attachment</a></li>
<li><a href="http://rcmodman.blogspot.com/2011/08/senior-telemaster-build-power-and-fuel.html">Part Six, Power and Fuel <-- YOU ARE HERE</a></li> </ol>Chuck Petershttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09726983071505840260noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3019883017809347133.post-19323030546900406312011-08-04T00:01:00.000-07:002011-08-04T13:28:14.660-07:00Senior Telemaster Build, Wing Attachment (Part Five)<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIDoXNqjRj09dkO14mTzQwCU0NOEHNhLMCOTzkLVWKQh9P1zNHtnuoAuSLrItF0uhyphenhyphenvTRul8lpifcdjlNnI0fu97bVdfN2vA3vO9pZmYKJ7fd9G30Kt6tVQ_13OWUSWI44FSqGCwGlj0YO/s1600/061e.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="399" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIDoXNqjRj09dkO14mTzQwCU0NOEHNhLMCOTzkLVWKQh9P1zNHtnuoAuSLrItF0uhyphenhyphenvTRul8lpifcdjlNnI0fu97bVdfN2vA3vO9pZmYKJ7fd9G30Kt6tVQ_13OWUSWI44FSqGCwGlj0YO/s640/061e.jpg" width="600" /></a></div><br />
The plans for the Senior Telemaster call for the wing to be mounted to the fuselage using rubber bands. While this method has been used successfully on many models, I wanted a more secure method of mounting the wing on my Telemaster. <br />
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If you have been following this series you will have noticed that during the wing build, I installed what I call a "wing doubler". This is an extra rib in the center of the wing that has an extended tab on the front that is meant to slide into a slot in the number two bulkhead which I made from 1/4" plywood. This secures the leading edge of the wing. I decided to make this doubler out of an epoxy composite material called G10. While a cheaper alternative would have been plywood, I wanted something I knew would not bend or break. G10 definitely fills the bill. I was able to easily cut it with a jig saw and ceramic tile blade. Do take caution if you decide to use this material as The fibers created when cutting or grinding are hazardous. You diffidently want to wear a respirator when working with G10.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh37coupZhKDTLc-eXTITIIQT93t7aBDqm6zuFUpns_9i61OLtNhuk4sknM0jakvEAXqBuPWWvAqIZBK0glJfsN9bboABkimBbVz28MWiWzoVRdMX-vlrrs7xQ5Q7VAoh7c4jWVwa3a0eXI/s1600/IMG_0101.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh37coupZhKDTLc-eXTITIIQT93t7aBDqm6zuFUpns_9i61OLtNhuk4sknM0jakvEAXqBuPWWvAqIZBK0glJfsN9bboABkimBbVz28MWiWzoVRdMX-vlrrs7xQ5Q7VAoh7c4jWVwa3a0eXI/s400/IMG_0101.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4UTfIBiCYZWKcuEvFeVrd6Dy0rrzN9PPGxyhQNd2JFYN7PkhLLhN13EPWQagOAY51UZetrs67WlixNpzGkmQyj1mD0T5yH_vNJ8Gj37hyfXdRTm_If1Bw-0dZwv0MdMeMdrm7ROyVljBt/s1600/slot3.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="335" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4UTfIBiCYZWKcuEvFeVrd6Dy0rrzN9PPGxyhQNd2JFYN7PkhLLhN13EPWQagOAY51UZetrs67WlixNpzGkmQyj1mD0T5yH_vNJ8Gj37hyfXdRTm_If1Bw-0dZwv0MdMeMdrm7ROyVljBt/s400/slot3.png" width="400" /></a></div><br />
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To secure the rear of the wing, I chose to use bolts that go through the top of the wing, down into the fuselage and into a plywood bracket where they meet a blind nut. I could have run the bolts through the trailing edge balsa and then into a corner bracket, but I wanted the bolts to be gripping on something more substantial. For this I fabricated an aluminum angle piece about 5" long that goes over top of of the rear portion of the wing including the aft section of the doubler and rear wing spar so that these items become integral to the design and would have to actually break for the bolts to pull through. I can tell you from the strength of the G10 alone, that's not going to happen. I'm sure the top of the fuselage would break and pull out before this wing section would.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtGMguxUVVPWxAUWIppXn5FuQ-e556Hh4mAFDOE_1O3cNwAmrS6niYp1nV-01e0b-HVQ8aCPnX4QZYaJ-vHy6L_wKXQZJMuGJp0-vqOt8QhciOM4jc2VzaAwB54c7g3lPoj2vdDPJR3WAh/s1600/wing+mounting+sketch.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="270" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtGMguxUVVPWxAUWIppXn5FuQ-e556Hh4mAFDOE_1O3cNwAmrS6niYp1nV-01e0b-HVQ8aCPnX4QZYaJ-vHy6L_wKXQZJMuGJp0-vqOt8QhciOM4jc2VzaAwB54c7g3lPoj2vdDPJR3WAh/s640/wing+mounting+sketch.png" width="600" /></a></div><br />
Below is the aluminum reinforcement piece that was added to the center section of the wing to disperse the pressure of the wing mounting bolts.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjKWs6x3KduHsTxCqSWnnr7XzvRKpN3c5LV20IUBudjs6gqWEMKuqr22iD3DVll2lqPk26PE8PylZtIht4D0u4DpenVW1Afng9s-NwbZrKKJDXliYpyUCm38hi5nkJR3KhdsNmPeDgcrr4S/s1600/118_1381.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjKWs6x3KduHsTxCqSWnnr7XzvRKpN3c5LV20IUBudjs6gqWEMKuqr22iD3DVll2lqPk26PE8PylZtIht4D0u4DpenVW1Afng9s-NwbZrKKJDXliYpyUCm38hi5nkJR3KhdsNmPeDgcrr4S/s400/118_1381.JPG" width="400" /></a></div><br />
In the photo below you can see the plywood bracket that the wing bolts screw into. Instead of gluing this piece into place I installed plywood ears that rise vertically along the sides of the fuselage. A bolt on each side then secures these risers to the top fuselage stringers. This allows the bracket to be unbolted and slide forward if access to the servo tray below is needed. You also see a plywood battery tray that was added to the center of the bracket. This tray has velcro and a strap to hold the receiver battery in place. The battery was placed here as I needed to shift the CG aft due to the weight of the OS 91 FS Engine.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJYLhDTCn5VkCrdXFJFR_ULmjVZz1I-Ev0VDk080XBsqOhGftkgSjHRfCKnLLoalL5BZ5Sj7hbVjKSOJs5EyLxSOoga58r3oA5Bgz-7xPZN5syrmFiLr4tbtMc2UbOgnbY7NzGKsCkN1Rp/s1600/IMG_0002+%25284%2529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJYLhDTCn5VkCrdXFJFR_ULmjVZz1I-Ev0VDk080XBsqOhGftkgSjHRfCKnLLoalL5BZ5Sj7hbVjKSOJs5EyLxSOoga58r3oA5Bgz-7xPZN5syrmFiLr4tbtMc2UbOgnbY7NzGKsCkN1Rp/s400/IMG_0002+%25284%2529.JPG" width="400" /></a></div><br />
Below you see here the two 1/4" holes were drilled thru the covering and aluminum reinforcement piece on top of the wing.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhj132bsJ_Z05uirMVEf-auMSTfaXByRKbRxfeRBDbqNexwzr0BV3Ca_YcBj5kAwOM45-f0sjc59MQxwkwPZ_kQ76sHVdHDT7XKvgwKdrJ70JY3jSjowgSBnS43USNpT4NlpL4VMXHFxwNV/s1600/IMG_0094.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhj132bsJ_Z05uirMVEf-auMSTfaXByRKbRxfeRBDbqNexwzr0BV3Ca_YcBj5kAwOM45-f0sjc59MQxwkwPZ_kQ76sHVdHDT7XKvgwKdrJ70JY3jSjowgSBnS43USNpT4NlpL4VMXHFxwNV/s400/IMG_0094.JPG" width="400" /></a></div><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhovNVtFr4IWa9QpityOWDSk7ZSk8DXWtQLityip1e9LzGT5X3aQTRE2XOnYYihlsoprUD1VG1nkwqrkVEzZRcGO5-oG5L_UGxOJGL69ZwStWUOd_TzhQC8ZHKvDFFpWDGx2QtpTQsvoE89/s1600/IMG_0119.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhovNVtFr4IWa9QpityOWDSk7ZSk8DXWtQLityip1e9LzGT5X3aQTRE2XOnYYihlsoprUD1VG1nkwqrkVEzZRcGO5-oG5L_UGxOJGL69ZwStWUOd_TzhQC8ZHKvDFFpWDGx2QtpTQsvoE89/s400/IMG_0119.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Wing Installed and Bolted Down</td></tr>
</tbody></table><br />
<ol><li><a href="http://rcmodman.blogspot.com/2011/06/senior-telemaster-build-part-one.html"> Part One, Wing</a></li>
<li><a href="http://rcmodman.blogspot.com/2011/07/senior-telemaster-build-tail-feathers.html">Part Two, Tail Feathers</a></li>
<li><a href="http://rcmodman.blogspot.com/2011/08/senior-telemaster-build-part-3-fuselage.html">Part Three, Fuselage</a></li>
<li><a href="http://rcmodman.blogspot.com/2011/08/senior-telemaster-build-wing-struts.html">Part Four, Wing Struts</a></li>
<li><a href="http://rcmodman.blogspot.com/2011/08/senior-telemaster-build-wing-attachment.html">Part Five, Wing Attachment <-- YOU ARE HERE</a></li>
<li><a href="http://rcmodman.blogspot.com/2011/08/senior-telemaster-build-power-and-fuel.html">Part Six, Power and Fuel</a></li> </ol>Chuck Petershttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09726983071505840260noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3019883017809347133.post-77706213509490020582011-08-03T10:19:00.000-07:002011-08-17T20:04:27.457-07:00Senior Telemaster Build, Wing Struts, (Part Four)<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkJRoWZwaY8ZpzNTEgZk9I9Q0MHmMMUhwTQeHskmsn_KQkbT4586uFujq47RrxfPzQ9VGSVbzeTnhr6bZaQC5zTIMVV-ZZceRCHzzvw9lrECFKpl8s9EW13aAaWucwxVXqOPnclhKil4fa/s1600/083+copye.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="374" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkJRoWZwaY8ZpzNTEgZk9I9Q0MHmMMUhwTQeHskmsn_KQkbT4586uFujq47RrxfPzQ9VGSVbzeTnhr6bZaQC5zTIMVV-ZZceRCHzzvw9lrECFKpl8s9EW13aAaWucwxVXqOPnclhKil4fa/s640/083+copye.jpg" width="600"alt="Senior Telemaster photo by Dennis Reifsnider" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Photo by D. Reifsnider</td></tr>
</tbody></table><br />
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In this, the fourth part of our series on building the Senior Telemaster, I'm going to go over construction of the wings struts. While the original plans don't call for them, I decided to add them as a safety measure since I was using an experimental wing mounting system. Also, I think they look cool. The strut mounting required that I fabricate a bracket for attaching the strut at both the wing and fuselage. Below you will see the bracket that was made for the wing.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwYUQUPrEjDENyq-xyCs9LpN0cif2rcEc8eSI-wzFAxw96AfTdpXfuMrcmrtNgiml_pngIKJgd9mKMCzBPPcM2MzLelPncUHacL6XnCk31qpLVwy9Lj4kEIsP0LCih7o8TUzR2_2hLPA7i/s1600/116_1378.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwYUQUPrEjDENyq-xyCs9LpN0cif2rcEc8eSI-wzFAxw96AfTdpXfuMrcmrtNgiml_pngIKJgd9mKMCzBPPcM2MzLelPncUHacL6XnCk31qpLVwy9Lj4kEIsP0LCih7o8TUzR2_2hLPA7i/s400/116_1378.JPG" width="400" /></a></div><br />
The wooden hardwood block was glued in between the upper and lower spars at so that the bracket hung down at the 9th outboard rib. Unfortunately I failed to get a photo of it prior to covering, but below is an illustrated drawing of it's placement.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjoDDfWy0EgZp4AMVcrLQujFA7KW_AB5ylgOjy51qw6DxZmKkd_RIeDQQaLZexzGYTVbK2Mjvde1yQQ3fIV2vcsxF0Fs-jazjvk-6uZP3on_9B8dv-DeXZPIHzqU69uH9buwtzi2i9ccjIb/s1600/bracket.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="228" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjoDDfWy0EgZp4AMVcrLQujFA7KW_AB5ylgOjy51qw6DxZmKkd_RIeDQQaLZexzGYTVbK2Mjvde1yQQ3fIV2vcsxF0Fs-jazjvk-6uZP3on_9B8dv-DeXZPIHzqU69uH9buwtzi2i9ccjIb/s400/bracket.png" width="400" /></a></div><br />
The photo below shows the finished bracket exiting the covering. Using 1/4" square balsa, I boxed in around the bracket so the covering would have an edge to adhere to. After the wing was covered, I put a bead of epoxyy around the bracket to create a fuel proof seal.<br />
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Now for the strut attachment on the fuselage. Starting with 5/8"x 3/16' stock and a Dremel Tool, I fabricated an aluminum bracket that spans the entire width of the fuselage and is fashioned so that the aluminum strut tubes slide over each end. The bracket is fastened to the bottom of the fuselage with a couple of socket head screws that go into blind nuts installed in the plywood fuselage support aft of the landing gear plate. The strut tube is fastened to the bracket with a cotter pin.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihgeXLztnHfvTOXv1eA1VBKvfn4DO1A5Kyz10o3k88lDQF3tYRZP7xAd8tfwKV-Z-VLa0OcISilHmSg1-bhVktda_7VFiJbLmRM3PKoadszshWV_QbDChSqopblxVlzsvic8WncajFYZFb/s1600/IMG_0068.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihgeXLztnHfvTOXv1eA1VBKvfn4DO1A5Kyz10o3k88lDQF3tYRZP7xAd8tfwKV-Z-VLa0OcISilHmSg1-bhVktda_7VFiJbLmRM3PKoadszshWV_QbDChSqopblxVlzsvic8WncajFYZFb/s400/IMG_0068.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Strut bracket attachment to bottom of fuselage</td></tr>
</tbody></table><br />
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As for the struts themselves, I used 5/8" K&S aluminum streamline tubing. In order to give them some added strength, I ran a piece of 3/16"x3/8" balsa inside the length of the tube. I then fabricated an end piece for attaching the tube to the bracket at the wing. The piece was fabricated from brass bar stock and 4-40 threaded rod that was bent into an "L" shape and soldered to the bar stock. A ball link was then attached to the threaded rod.<br />
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The above piece was then secured into the end of the strut tubing using J-B Weld liquid steel epoxy resin. <br />
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The finished struts are then attached to the wing with a bolt through the ball link and with a cotter key though a hole drilled the tube at the other end.<br />
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<ol><li><a href="http://rcmodman.blogspot.com/2011/06/senior-telemaster-build-part-one.html"> Part One, Wing</a></li>
<li><a href="http://rcmodman.blogspot.com/2011/07/senior-telemaster-build-tail-feathers.html">Part Two, Tail Feathers</a></li>
<li><a href="http://rcmodman.blogspot.com/2011/08/senior-telemaster-build-part-3-fuselage.html">Part Three, Fuselage</a></li>
<li><a href="http://rcmodman.blogspot.com/2011/08/senior-telemaster-build-wing-struts.html">Part Four, Wing Struts <-- YOU ARE HERE</a></li>
<li><a href="http://rcmodman.blogspot.com/2011/08/senior-telemaster-build-wing-attachment.html">Part Five, Wing Attachment</a></li>
<li><a href="http://rcmodman.blogspot.com/2011/08/senior-telemaster-build-power-and-fuel.html">Part Six, Power and Fuel</a></li>
</ol>Chuck Petershttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09726983071505840260noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3019883017809347133.post-91393371745131592772011-08-02T12:19:00.000-07:002011-08-17T20:03:20.845-07:00Senior Telemaster Build, Fuselage (Part 3)<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjv7a6ox0vvhDPxOYdnYHrQVL63KPkA3yBfAQaRzODW-fLnks8Q2xFIIO48RFOZ1ls0Kb4-pCw0zjOhoFFlb_Fbnxmccs7rcU9UsaZ8t-u_YRCXrZpPnRV0gkOf3rqrBdhl3bVg3GOuYRPj/s1600/051+copye.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="346" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjv7a6ox0vvhDPxOYdnYHrQVL63KPkA3yBfAQaRzODW-fLnks8Q2xFIIO48RFOZ1ls0Kb4-pCw0zjOhoFFlb_Fbnxmccs7rcU9UsaZ8t-u_YRCXrZpPnRV0gkOf3rqrBdhl3bVg3GOuYRPj/s640/051+copye.jpg" width="600"alt="Senior Telemaster Side View" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Photo by D. Reifsnider</td></tr>
</tbody></table><br />
The fuselage of the Senior Telemaster has sides that are built up with one directly on top of the other. You start by gluing up the forward sides and pinning them down to a flat wax paper covered surface until the glue has dried.<br />
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Once the forward sections are dry, you align them opposite of each other and mark bulkhead and engine mount positions. Then you add the stringers to one side.<br />
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The other side is then built over the first so that both sides match.<br />
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With both sides of the fuselage built, it was time to add the bulkheads and horizontal stringers. At this point I decided to make a magnetic building board. This was a great time saver and and gave me a fuselage that was perfectly square. My magnetic board consisted of a 20"x 60" piece of 18 gauge galvanized sheet metal that I had the local HVAC shop cut for me. Then I set about making 90 degree magnetic fixtures from various items. I cut some 90 degree triangles from 1/4" basswood, used a few 90 degree builders squares I bought at harbor freight, as well as a couple of other wood fixtures I had around the shop. I epoxied 1-1/2" strips of sheet metal to the bottoms of all my triangle fixtures and placed 3/4" ceramic magnets to the bottoms and secured them with packaging tape. This worked well and I had plenty of holding power with these small magnets. On a few of wooden fixtures I put screws into the 45 degree edges so that I could but them up to the fuselage sides and then strap rubber bands across them to give downward pressure.<br />
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Once I had all my fixtures together, I placed the sheet metal over my building table with the fuselage plan view on top and a piece of wax paper over that. I was then able to clamp the fuselage sides and bulkheads together using my magnetic fixtures to hold everything while I cut the horizontal stringers to size. Once I had all my pieces cut, it was simply a matter of going back and gluing each item while holding everything together with my magnetic fixtures, rubber bands and a few spring clamps. One note here, I made bulkhead #2 out of 1/4" plywood instead of balsa as it would be holding the forward wing with the G10 wing doubler that was fabricated to secure the wing, versus rubber bands that the plans called for. If you want touse this method to secure your wing, be sure to cut the slot in the bulkhead to accept the doubler prior to installing the bulkhead.<br />
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Once the sides and bulkheads were glued up, I added the landing gear plate and bottom stringer. This was done prior to removing the fuselage from the building board.<br />
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5/8" triangle reinforcement blocks were added to bulkheads #1 and #2 as well as inside the fuselage securing the landing gear plate.<br />
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</a></div>Next was the Installation of the engine compartment doublers and engine mounting rails.<br />
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Below you see the addition of the fuel compartment bottom sheeting.<br />
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Mounting landing gear.<br />
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Fitting the engine bearing plate.<br />
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Fuel compartment cover.<br />
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A custom fabricated fuselage to wing strut bracket was installed just aft of landing gear. An additional piece of 1/4" plywood was placed on the bottom of the fuselage to support the aluminum bracket.<br />
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Installation of the tail wheel using a Sullivan bracket.<br />
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Installed switch and charge jack.<br />
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Fuel proofing the engine and fuel tank compartments prior to covering the fuselage.<br />
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Control rod installation.<br />
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Servo tray with electronics ready to be mounted.<br />
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Bare bones completed, ready for covering.<br />
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<ol><li><a href="http://rcmodman.blogspot.com/2011/06/senior-telemaster-build-part-one.html"> Part One, Wing</a></li>
<li><a href="http://rcmodman.blogspot.com/2011/07/senior-telemaster-build-tail-feathers.html">Part Two, Tail Feathers</a></li>
<li><a href="http://rcmodman.blogspot.com/2011/08/senior-telemaster-build-part-3-fuselage.html">Part Three, Fuselage <-- YOU ARE HERE</a></li>
<li><a href="http://rcmodman.blogspot.com/2011/08/senior-telemaster-build-wing-struts.html">Part Four, Wing Struts</a></li>
<li><a href="http://rcmodman.blogspot.com/2011/08/senior-telemaster-build-wing-attachment.html">Part Five, Wing Attachment</a></li>
<li><a href="http://rcmodman.blogspot.com/2011/08/senior-telemaster-build-power-and-fuel.html">Part Six, Power and Fuel</a></li>
</ol>Chuck Petershttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09726983071505840260noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3019883017809347133.post-49903854891364435492011-08-01T12:15:00.000-07:002011-08-01T14:34:32.577-07:00Build a Hobby Zone Super Cub From Parts<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3genMWefUorAhBmsHvzGpNSg1khE0GRkRdiERaiPoVttdrfRhv1DmrQSs7RFhmSsHx7npjigAF_mhWyNyR948g6DCUQnaVFFVnuF7CuarEpu0ggYiveJ20GDnN-d8LP8riQSmsp1ExPHC/s1600/sc.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="196" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3genMWefUorAhBmsHvzGpNSg1khE0GRkRdiERaiPoVttdrfRhv1DmrQSs7RFhmSsHx7npjigAF_mhWyNyR948g6DCUQnaVFFVnuF7CuarEpu0ggYiveJ20GDnN-d8LP8riQSmsp1ExPHC/s400/sc.png" width="400" /></a></div><br />
Hobby Zone's Super Cub LP is a great trainer and many a RC pilot has cut his teeth on this plane. Not only is it a stable slow flyer, but it is quite robust and easily fixed if damaged. The only problem I've found with the RTF kit is that it comes with a 72MHz FM radio system that some might consider obsolete since the new 2.4 GHz system has been introduced by Spectrum. If you plan on flying at the local soccer field where their could be others on a FM system, they could turn on there transmitter, be on the same frequency as you and wham, your model is reduced to a pile of Styrofoam. One way to circumvent this problem is to build your Super Cub from parts. This not only gives you components that can be used in another model as your skills progress, but it's also cheaper if you already have a 2.4GHz transmitter. Building it from parts and using 2.4GHz technology also gives you the ability to easily make upgrades such as adding ailerons, adding a more powerful motor or even navigational lights. All of which would require that you replace the original FM radio gear if you bought the RTF version. You might as well make the leap now and build from parts so that you have the radio system that you will ultimately want to have anyway.<br />
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If you decide on the parts build route, here is what you will need:<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6ep-64zxD_Nivxar5XOeVh6cH1l-b-HmYOHGv6E6oammH440rpiyQj4Y9PAHB03nolzJWytGaT5xizngDbbYLWEqhQe2LUqYEp4JAOuEjGvsYDbjkJpyo5y0JCA9XrWQvN8DHdmfNfnIa/s1600/IMG_0042.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6ep-64zxD_Nivxar5XOeVh6cH1l-b-HmYOHGv6E6oammH440rpiyQj4Y9PAHB03nolzJWytGaT5xizngDbbYLWEqhQe2LUqYEp4JAOuEjGvsYDbjkJpyo5y0JCA9XrWQvN8DHdmfNfnIa/s400/IMG_0042.JPG" width="400" /></a></div><br />
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<b>Part# HBZ7185 Fuselage</b>. $18.99. This item includes the firewall, both control rods, battery box and door and the wing posts.<br />
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<b>Part #HBZ7120 Wing</b>. $19.99 Includes struts.<br />
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<b>Part# HBZ7125 Tail Assembly</b> $11.99. Includes Stab, Fin, Rudder, elevator, tail wheel and control horns.<br />
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<b>Part# HBZ7126 Cowl.</b> $2.99. Includes mounting screws.<br />
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<b>Part# HBZ7106 Landing Gear.</b> $5.99. Landing Gear. Includes tires, skirts and hardware.<br />
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<b>Part# HBZ7134 Motor.</b> $10.99 Includes Pinion <br />
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<b>Part# HBZ7129 Gearbox Assembly.</b> $8.99. Includes prop shaft and hardware.<br />
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<b>Part# HBZ7310 Decal Sheet (Blue Scheme) or HBZ7110 (Red Scheme)</b>$3.99<br />
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<b>Part# HBZ7101 Spinner</b> $.99<br />
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<b>Part# HBZ1002 Prop 9x6</b> $3.49<br />
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You will also need a <b>20amp electronic speed control with a BEC</b> (battery elimination circuit) Be sure you get a "Brushed" speed control and not a "Brushless" as the stock motor has brushes.<br />
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A five or more channel <b>Spektrum 2.4 GHz receiver</b>. I used a Orange 6 channel receiver from Hobby King.<br />
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<b>(2) Ultra Micro Servos</b>. I used Hitec HS-55's<br />
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The first thing I did while building mine was to make a couple of modifications to strengthen the SC, that being Reinforcing the wing saddle and battery box. The videos below by NeCubFlyer do a very good job of describing these mods. If you want to add ailerons or cover your model in econokote, check out his youtube channel for more great videos on the subject.<br />
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<iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="349" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/BjtM_faxRu4" width="560"></iframe><br />
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<iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="349" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/pWN0nQwW3sE" width="560"></iframe><br />
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Assembly of the parts is pretty straight forward. A link to the instruction manual is below. <a href="http://www.hobbyzonesports.com/ProdInfo/Files/HBZ7380-Manual.pdf">Super Cub LP instruction manual.</a><br />
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Here is a video from georgesjunglerc that shows the basic Super Cub assembly:<br />
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<iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="349" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/VFxoOcYmh1c" width="560"></iframe><br />
One thing not covered in the manual is installing the servos as they come pre-installed with the kit version. The fuselage has cut outs in the foam where the servos set. You can install them as the factory does by setting them into a bed of white adhesive caulk, or you can attach them to a set of wooden rails secured to the foam with epoxy like I do. With the servos screwed down to the rails they are very secure and easily removed if a repair becomes necessary.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi576MbRFtbcJILksoQEBKYikwzQbhV_9-POFl4MrOZAEDLBE26id8TqSrjP1w8GkFwx8PmLa9T_sJ1wdU0atkZAwO1nZ5253fRKQpVz9jCUoGW9FCj958brAD0EDeZAjBeq88xyDZimRUi/s1600/IMG_0051.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi576MbRFtbcJILksoQEBKYikwzQbhV_9-POFl4MrOZAEDLBE26id8TqSrjP1w8GkFwx8PmLa9T_sJ1wdU0atkZAwO1nZ5253fRKQpVz9jCUoGW9FCj958brAD0EDeZAjBeq88xyDZimRUi/s400/IMG_0051.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>First thing I did was to bind the receiver to my transmitter and set the servo arms so that they were 90 degrees to the servo case. This gives me equal servo throws in each direction. Then I cut a couple of pieces of 1/2"x1/8" bass wood the width of the inside fuselage. The servos were then centered on the rails and lined up so that they were side by side by side and butted up to each other. I marked the hole locations on the rails leaving a small gap between the rail and servo case so that when the servos are screwed down, they are not binding between the rails. <br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPu9ogXPLTc19xerqh01PGMpXj_Owx6FbsCIt3Vi_kue0cOH-rTM0JmN7yYuVsDzwNOEv4ChEH1NRhdSxke9UJ1RcY65_QvEQFRfwXR9Bp_ms7aqz4s_7RMLA9s6LQu8HQYrh_r5XW7b5T/s1600/IMG_0049.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPu9ogXPLTc19xerqh01PGMpXj_Owx6FbsCIt3Vi_kue0cOH-rTM0JmN7yYuVsDzwNOEv4ChEH1NRhdSxke9UJ1RcY65_QvEQFRfwXR9Bp_ms7aqz4s_7RMLA9s6LQu8HQYrh_r5XW7b5T/s400/IMG_0049.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>Once I had the servos attached to the rails, I mixed up some 5 minute epoxy and apply it to the underside of the rails. Then I set the whole assembly in place, holding it until the glue had set. To attach the control rods, I removeed the control arms from the servos, ran the Z bend of the rod through the desired hole on the arm and then attach the arm to the top servo gear securing it with the screw.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifZnb_O9pxlgH2Dh9SAiQF-Vtududo91s2bjBzcoMPBLGdVmHzKavOX2EPIMY6xnax0mfcR5wuFiR7sH7fV5oKwEI0XtIN8C-OmZIFlhTdAZvblH1sz_-QZlw4KdsuttdMU8USz8wHNsnP/s1600/IMG_0057.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifZnb_O9pxlgH2Dh9SAiQF-Vtududo91s2bjBzcoMPBLGdVmHzKavOX2EPIMY6xnax0mfcR5wuFiR7sH7fV5oKwEI0XtIN8C-OmZIFlhTdAZvblH1sz_-QZlw4KdsuttdMU8USz8wHNsnP/s400/IMG_0057.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: large;">Finished Radio Installation</span></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br />
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</tbody></table>Finally, you will want to align your wing and make a couple of registration marks with a Sharpie. Start by measuring the distance from each wing tip to the side of the fuselage, Measurement "A" in the below diagram. Adjust the wing side to side until both "A" measurements are equal. Then measure from the button on the top of the wing to the middle of the intersection of the vertical fin and rudder. Measurement "B" on the diagram below. This makes sure your wing is not skewed. Once both "B" measurements are the same you can take your sharpie and make a dot on the leading edge of the wing and a corresponding dot on the fuselage. Do the same for the trailing edge and fuselage and you have a quick reference point for aligning the wing anytime it is installed.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2aOEQE3P22BevL0JuEC5GPtVnarhgpg5BhLs85_DIGC5L_wGxVaWx4JYbgQPVDvxAJnLgEVstuv8qqXjcn2FVDpy3NGARCV1GuHdyYzjtnycJOKaCsRkwzlPu9cU-dH4iy4lmoyi_3PyG/s1600/wing+alignment.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="510" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2aOEQE3P22BevL0JuEC5GPtVnarhgpg5BhLs85_DIGC5L_wGxVaWx4JYbgQPVDvxAJnLgEVstuv8qqXjcn2FVDpy3NGARCV1GuHdyYzjtnycJOKaCsRkwzlPu9cU-dH4iy4lmoyi_3PyG/s640/wing+alignment.png" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: large;">Wing Alignment Measurements</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>One last mod I did to my Super Cub was adding a length of clear packaging tape to the leading edge and wing tips to protect them from dings. I also added two strips of 3M extreme strapping tape at the center of the wing where the rubber bands land to reinforce this area.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNjOT5T3Z9JqtKO3WN1CtRxv92UHbePl2CfgGVX1Hp7Tc0FkfKwAnTsEQt6UX_i5LIeDxqLRaUq_5w9nTbuOJRY6-gwJAoLgVdRSdMDTqO2Flt9IjQUFuH65M2ABjw1RphvO3znXunFZ5T/s1600/fincub.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="407" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNjOT5T3Z9JqtKO3WN1CtRxv92UHbePl2CfgGVX1Hp7Tc0FkfKwAnTsEQt6UX_i5LIeDxqLRaUq_5w9nTbuOJRY6-gwJAoLgVdRSdMDTqO2Flt9IjQUFuH65M2ABjw1RphvO3znXunFZ5T/s640/fincub.jpg" width="600" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: large;">Finished Super Cub with Red Decal Scheme</span></td></tr>
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<a href="http://www.cafepress.com/pokerchaos/7874329">Cool Super Cub RC T-Shirt</a>Chuck Petershttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09726983071505840260noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3019883017809347133.post-61038927418387554312011-07-21T11:14:00.000-07:002011-08-03T11:35:45.223-07:00Flying High On 2.4GHz<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.cafepress.com/pokerchaos/7897095" imageanchor="1" style="clear:left; float:left;margin-right:1em; margin-bottom:1em"><img border="0" height="320" width="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivZyELD5_Mh5PCoZMTKUkX26PofgtRZsWcjp5shjvoMjf2O7w1i2RNxM1xNEvVYJs-ZsXNNvbNez15RPbTHLyOPUo7veXEtil2sfu6WEVvfLrRxblB9GJ6LgWdfvIHDkERJ04LvzTfsbFm/s320/557742398v1_480x480_Front_Color-Black.jpg" /></a></div>It sounds like some new designer drug cooked up in a backroom lab, But anyone who flies radio control airplanes or helicopters know it's the latest greatest frequency for RC radio gear. While many might complain of glitches in the new technology, I for one am relieved to get away from the old school FM frequencies where it was critical that no one else was using the same crystal as you or your expensive hand built model could become a pile of broken balsa wood with just the flip of a switch.<br />
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This latest t-shirt design is for the RC Pilot like myself that is glad to be flying high on 2.4GHz. <a href="http://www.cafepress.com/pokerchaos/7897095">Get your 2.4 GHz tee here</a>.Chuck Petershttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09726983071505840260noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3019883017809347133.post-77689767344207243432011-07-18T19:42:00.000-07:002011-07-18T19:42:54.247-07:00Home Made CA Glue Tip Applicator<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhoo3D8hQm7KWN08p3v8YwdMf3FLTltPn7UtGexg2YBMjzincIMWi9pVpTLGLdHAoxKt43FXxrzFHj2xmFGWY1TpF0V6Z8kICtsoBdPGWlvEzBw-OH1n_DqnxOt41YzkR4JpAe78_c68WCy/s1600/IMG_0019.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear:left; float:left;margin-right:1em; margin-bottom:1em"><img border="0" height="240" width="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhoo3D8hQm7KWN08p3v8YwdMf3FLTltPn7UtGexg2YBMjzincIMWi9pVpTLGLdHAoxKt43FXxrzFHj2xmFGWY1TpF0V6Z8kICtsoBdPGWlvEzBw-OH1n_DqnxOt41YzkR4JpAe78_c68WCy/s320/IMG_0019.JPG" /></a></div>Here is a great tip for model builders when you need to apply CA to a very small area. Make yourself a fine tip applicator by starting with a regular Q-Tip. It seems the handle on these little jewels is hollow. <br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjs6LSQ6vuYSnopWnpVNQTa_w7fiOPfKnfSO82nP153pa-R0Jrl4rmhVuGXQhMZwfxslxpX02ETYt80bSHPrOw4WeIaHsnFV83tTnl0ZIiuu7uoY20ZagkWjZgUzfDeslIsSRbZrr2a1472/s1600/IMG_0015.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear:left; float:left;margin-right:1em; margin-bottom:1em"><img border="0" height="240" width="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjs6LSQ6vuYSnopWnpVNQTa_w7fiOPfKnfSO82nP153pa-R0Jrl4rmhVuGXQhMZwfxslxpX02ETYt80bSHPrOw4WeIaHsnFV83tTnl0ZIiuu7uoY20ZagkWjZgUzfDeslIsSRbZrr2a1472/s320/IMG_0015.JPG" /></a></div>Hold your Q-tip by both ends over a open flame such as a candle. Heat the center and pull slightly as you rotate it. Once it softens and stretches slightly, let it cool.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4sE_eNEP5pQCyp02n25m8VPOSX-CpRaP9UiCfpbl2f7kl1hJpQCvmz1zQem78BMA-3NsTSURGHrlkThyphenhyphent4RCYvaC-KXqv4ny6fg82I-6X6dQy3PYDaKiNlzumylgX2A395PAIP3NXQpTl/s1600/IMG_0026.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear:left; float:left;margin-right:1em; margin-bottom:1em"><img border="0" height="240" width="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4sE_eNEP5pQCyp02n25m8VPOSX-CpRaP9UiCfpbl2f7kl1hJpQCvmz1zQem78BMA-3NsTSURGHrlkThyphenhyphent4RCYvaC-KXqv4ny6fg82I-6X6dQy3PYDaKiNlzumylgX2A395PAIP3NXQpTl/s320/IMG_0026.JPG" /></a></div>Then Take a pair of scissors and cut the middle of the Q-tip in half and cut each cotton end off. You then have two applicators.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTdrDx6nVQE0r-WQoD_5DUxnUHkScsXfrNS5nyDwmRGgKmV8uk30qaQPvUA9l-wDHvjimYZ2zGbRrHy6HS4tYc2EEgGMGYR6FCmQ6KYWGf_QyFUETb7AXdkF_Ddtl5Zi3Ezu4nKaAdpS9L/s1600/IMG_0033.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear:left; float:left;margin-right:1em; margin-bottom:1em"><img border="0" height="240" width="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTdrDx6nVQE0r-WQoD_5DUxnUHkScsXfrNS5nyDwmRGgKmV8uk30qaQPvUA9l-wDHvjimYZ2zGbRrHy6HS4tYc2EEgGMGYR6FCmQ6KYWGf_QyFUETb7AXdkF_Ddtl5Zi3Ezu4nKaAdpS9L/s320/IMG_0033.JPG" /></a></div>To attach them to your bottle of CA, take a short piece of silicone fuel tubing and slip the newly made applicator in one end and slide the other over the nozzle on your CA bottle.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigHjdavVz1wj72uFmdCiAxGehIT5sbkuHq44IrC6Gh7gR0HP-TfzZQRaMb7oHi8lJO2qOdb5pI_P8JYKXtGSvoxi53HvbXcLo7jNBKmXUVmGFZ8U_BrAcqVp4QkSnbJ2YHUqJBSk2Nd5Vs/s1600/IMG_0021.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear:left; float:left;margin-right:1em; margin-bottom:1em"><img border="0" height="240" width="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigHjdavVz1wj72uFmdCiAxGehIT5sbkuHq44IrC6Gh7gR0HP-TfzZQRaMb7oHi8lJO2qOdb5pI_P8JYKXtGSvoxi53HvbXcLo7jNBKmXUVmGFZ8U_BrAcqVp4QkSnbJ2YHUqJBSk2Nd5Vs/s320/IMG_0021.JPG" /></a></div><br />
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You're ready to go.Chuck Petershttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09726983071505840260noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3019883017809347133.post-78688493776604305872011-07-14T08:33:00.000-07:002011-08-17T20:02:21.486-07:00Senior Telemaster Build, Tail Feathers (Part 2)<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgca_ZwiGDRXIniuWA-sZbHaG-cCUL4Js_qCdX6bTyqzUOAFmCKQ8s9a4Uc0DQ-5JnM2-ds-UUsf1cLh9HSUzweuUrQL0aQFHCpzV9YdchePS_MWfzra2Jno61S0HESeYquHETkLr4mb49o/s1600/041e.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="285" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgca_ZwiGDRXIniuWA-sZbHaG-cCUL4Js_qCdX6bTyqzUOAFmCKQ8s9a4Uc0DQ-5JnM2-ds-UUsf1cLh9HSUzweuUrQL0aQFHCpzV9YdchePS_MWfzra2Jno61S0HESeYquHETkLr4mb49o/s640/041e.jpg" width="600"alt="Senior Telemaster Aft view" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Photo by D. Reifsnider</td></tr>
</tbody></table><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHSPdIwKU75m2KOS5EOodju9xp7gK7_h5dkqVpFRSyX8t4n27O0hvMMMDegZjT3sFhBHBSjeJKwjI-YavOgrqnp90pmUlEOARCi3zW-YXeyMXIkp48Ijx3purQeJrD9SH_jmcpH8nO8NR4/s1600/106_1326.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHSPdIwKU75m2KOS5EOodju9xp7gK7_h5dkqVpFRSyX8t4n27O0hvMMMDegZjT3sFhBHBSjeJKwjI-YavOgrqnp90pmUlEOARCi3zW-YXeyMXIkp48Ijx3purQeJrD9SH_jmcpH8nO8NR4/s320/106_1326.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>In part one of this series I covered getting set up with tools and such for building the STM along with the initial steps of building the wing. If you haven't read part one of this series, you can check it out <a href="http://rcmodman.blogspot.com/2011/06/senior-telemaster-build-part-one.html">here</a>.<br />
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In this segment I'll cover building the tail section which includes the stabilizer, elevator, rudder and fin. I started with the stabilizer which is built just like the wing panels where you lay the plans down on a flat building surface and cover them with wax paper. The trailing edge, bottom spar, and leading edge are then pinned to the building board and ribs are installed. A word of caution, the set of plans I received were extremely warped. If I had built the stab by laying the ribs exactly as shown, the stab would have been an inch wider on the left side of the rudder than the right. I had to adjust rib spacing to get the stab symmetrically left and right. Same as with the wing, if I had laid the trailing or leading edges down on the plans without checking for straightness with a straight edge, I would have ended up with a warped flying surface.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCaQZ40_P0KbaxCLueB4J54uQOeUyIts5Aoa4dmOMT5e7XOe9tEwzW1ASzXSQrFk-838eOh1D0z74xku_fx59LqWOBS0Zkt2VL0mmuDh6e3GgUI91szzNz-9Z9OMVCAr5nI4ncC44E0XAX/s1600/106_1325.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCaQZ40_P0KbaxCLueB4J54uQOeUyIts5Aoa4dmOMT5e7XOe9tEwzW1ASzXSQrFk-838eOh1D0z74xku_fx59LqWOBS0Zkt2VL0mmuDh6e3GgUI91szzNz-9Z9OMVCAr5nI4ncC44E0XAX/s320/106_1325.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Top Planking Glued and Pinned to Center Ribs</td></tr>
</tbody></table>Special attention is required when installing the two center ribs so that they are 90 degrees to the leading and trail edge as well as 90 degrees vertically so that the fin will be straight up and down.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGPEgy5u8eQgL7UwQWfFlzVKLDR-zKhKsqfF4RMKutKvHVhGGdPjxNt1C0Rvg8ccJ5EBXf9Q8h06jW5f_eB2R03nGXlKhZba-z-iJ6vzujVb6SOLlBTTJ_91GVNL9E2vNb3fuicxRHLbjg/s1600/106_1331.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGPEgy5u8eQgL7UwQWfFlzVKLDR-zKhKsqfF4RMKutKvHVhGGdPjxNt1C0Rvg8ccJ5EBXf9Q8h06jW5f_eB2R03nGXlKhZba-z-iJ6vzujVb6SOLlBTTJ_91GVNL9E2vNb3fuicxRHLbjg/s320/106_1331.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Elevator Pinned Against Stab. and Halves Glued Together</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhsvreCSsYI7ymgVnGmfbrJ_E-FelZWYDQd0qy3vU-RPGv-WkU8sWr_LRPbzBXl4REgD7QkKScMqVGjZqZSg6zKunps0wY1GDbytSZYpjJXml5bk7t37-gyqjsfEFr3eDUlJgOMktkp-qKx/s1600/104_1321.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhsvreCSsYI7ymgVnGmfbrJ_E-FelZWYDQd0qy3vU-RPGv-WkU8sWr_LRPbzBXl4REgD7QkKScMqVGjZqZSg6zKunps0wY1GDbytSZYpjJXml5bk7t37-gyqjsfEFr3eDUlJgOMktkp-qKx/s320/104_1321.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Rudder Sections Glued Together and Pinned to Flat Surface.</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzfeCcMg6zIbFWWpBv0AJv7x38KM8mRE379ej4WjHmmmhje7Rqh34JTfX3Zbl5mtTW-vK3ke4iNbmXpCjCWXpuhYT5p5J8m-8cqcvMLIR7xFdCtczO4Zxyh38T6blStsejUbInSGTacpgL/s1600/106_1335.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzfeCcMg6zIbFWWpBv0AJv7x38KM8mRE379ej4WjHmmmhje7Rqh34JTfX3Zbl5mtTW-vK3ke4iNbmXpCjCWXpuhYT5p5J8m-8cqcvMLIR7xFdCtczO4Zxyh38T6blStsejUbInSGTacpgL/s320/106_1335.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Stab Ready for Tips to be Added</td></tr>
</tbody></table><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2b6-HDF18rV76sHZhqUouL5vrKWWrzKUZ94BXQm0X5_fS4v8BTYc7lVg_jN8enGx268BDuypEW2b4jRNe6ZmR6Lh5PxcsPvWX-Qt1Z6MTyt9k-8eTH107CldoceFo9EedzO7ebDtxCuBh/s1600/106_1327.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2b6-HDF18rV76sHZhqUouL5vrKWWrzKUZ94BXQm0X5_fS4v8BTYc7lVg_jN8enGx268BDuypEW2b4jRNe6ZmR6Lh5PxcsPvWX-Qt1Z6MTyt9k-8eTH107CldoceFo9EedzO7ebDtxCuBh/s320/106_1327.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Fin Glued Up With Notches Cut for LE, Center Spar and TE.</td></tr>
</tbody></table><br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjH-t05kdXhMB4jdZuPl7agiY5IkSEsB82G7q3bpKddkUtqlPeixygjNp0C7TDDz4lAPnO-65y2chOkZ3R_fsGK_t3tq5kMgNAj7NyUzRKPiLpAgaD4Na-KjtIpFCN6j3KRY6wF1t14Sek-/s1600/106_1328.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjH-t05kdXhMB4jdZuPl7agiY5IkSEsB82G7q3bpKddkUtqlPeixygjNp0C7TDDz4lAPnO-65y2chOkZ3R_fsGK_t3tq5kMgNAj7NyUzRKPiLpAgaD4Na-KjtIpFCN6j3KRY6wF1t14Sek-/s320/106_1328.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Close Up of Notches<br />
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</tbody></table><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnB7qc4PapyQO1OOMx92iuK2kWMjU9PmVPojAe6R7G21i4Mu3gzause9focE1MdD1Y_MMzeVMpIwBJjJ0FgVdNbA8MyEYAHzGFBiDi5-_d9MlCk1zNkXplL1l6zGJxEAwGBiwAegPPJvfN/s1600/tail.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="241" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnB7qc4PapyQO1OOMx92iuK2kWMjU9PmVPojAe6R7G21i4Mu3gzause9focE1MdD1Y_MMzeVMpIwBJjJ0FgVdNbA8MyEYAHzGFBiDi5-_d9MlCk1zNkXplL1l6zGJxEAwGBiwAegPPJvfN/s400/tail.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Tail Ready to be Covered</td></tr>
</tbody></table><br />
<ol><li><a href="http://rcmodman.blogspot.com/2011/06/senior-telemaster-build-part-one.html"> Part One, Wing</a></li>
<li><a href="http://rcmodman.blogspot.com/2011/07/senior-telemaster-build-tail-feathers.html">Part Two, Tail Feathers <--YOU ARE HERE</a></li>
<li><a href="http://rcmodman.blogspot.com/2011/08/senior-telemaster-build-part-3-fuselage.html">Part Three, Fuselage</a></li>
<li><a href="http://rcmodman.blogspot.com/2011/08/senior-telemaster-build-wing-struts.html">Part Four, Wing Struts</a></li>
<li><a href="http://rcmodman.blogspot.com/2011/08/senior-telemaster-build-wing-attachment.html">Part Five, Wing Attachment</a></li>
<li><a href="http://rcmodman.blogspot.com/2011/08/senior-telemaster-build-power-and-fuel.html">Part Six, Power and Fuel</a></li>
</ol>Chuck Petershttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09726983071505840260noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3019883017809347133.post-81735245723012600942011-07-05T07:09:00.000-07:002011-08-03T11:37:34.686-07:00RC Aircraft Pilot<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHNGyditxiGyGEU5vxSamks3QIwgXMNWOV11-Fr6AR2IUSjiGFna0pH22-0iR45dK0iDn3ZmEqajLB_CuDq5cyFGRO0mqv96_52-jkP4Bf4663FF6_UgmCGSLfeqqeyf-iBw8wQ50_BAat/s1600/552855105v0_480x480_Front_Color-AshGrey.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear:left; float:left;margin-right:1em; margin-bottom:1em"><img border="0" height="320" width="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHNGyditxiGyGEU5vxSamks3QIwgXMNWOV11-Fr6AR2IUSjiGFna0pH22-0iR45dK0iDn3ZmEqajLB_CuDq5cyFGRO0mqv96_52-jkP4Bf4663FF6_UgmCGSLfeqqeyf-iBw8wQ50_BAat/s320/552855105v0_480x480_Front_Color-AshGrey.jpg" /></a></div><br />
Looking for something something sharp for your pilot to wear? Here is a great gift idea for any RC pilot. Featuring a Parkzone Super Cub LP which is one of the best RC trainer aircraft available for new pilots to learn on. This legendary aircraft is known as a very stable and great flying plane that is a blast to fly. This 100% cotton t-shirt is the newest design in the <a href="http://www.cafepress.com/pokerchaos/5918227">Poker and Chaos</a> line of aviation apparel.<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.cafepress.com/pokerchaos/7874329">Get Your Super Cub T-Shirt Here.<br />
</a>Chuck Petershttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09726983071505840260noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3019883017809347133.post-20667237607330099232011-06-29T11:33:00.000-07:002011-08-03T11:34:26.854-07:00T28 Trojan Pilot T-Shirt<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.cafepress.com/pokerchaos/7869236" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgnx3AnOuuxNfTToN-uNabELBtim70VgnfC83ebTfyGhzCq92TAXx_xZZnhnfDZCNFLo-tzUvo6YYtuOjWzorkodtFZ-TMPK5Y2hHzud2bso2wnPrj5mRVxF3Yd5fA3y-RAth-LT4OcO5ol/s400/551219183v2_480x480_Back_Color-White.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>The T28 North American Trojan is one of my favorite RC airplanes to fly. The full scale Trojan was used during by the Navy starting in the 50's as trainer for pilots. Today it's radio controlled little brother is made by Parkzone and is flown by many pilots including myself.<br />
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With very sturdy foam construction, mine has taken more than a few beatings and continues to be a blast to fly. This is also a great plane from those that like to tinker. Some have added flaps and retractable landing gear. Mine sports a eflite power 10 motor which gives it unlimited vertical climb. If you don't own one of these jewels, then it might be time to let your better half know that the Parkzone T28 Trojan is at the top your Christmas wish list. Or if you all ready have one, let her know you want a <a href="http://www.cafepress.com/pokerchaos/7869236">T28 RC Pilot shirt from Poker and Chaos</a>.Chuck Petershttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09726983071505840260noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3019883017809347133.post-72332733070324039092011-06-25T10:15:00.000-07:002011-08-17T20:01:18.043-07:00Senior Telemaster Build, Part One<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4Eiztt9_uxIWxne3IGvuu4aUDJ5bI6KZYePrfCaBO89vmvJhjkqJigefSLbyCGMvwBuHI_aYpe0PfKD8-lade739sBKixvxl0SqzQhkB9jRpuPFLPqMFjpn3hyphenhyphenPjf3EQXK66pvx6UNLRb/s1600/036+copye.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="458" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4Eiztt9_uxIWxne3IGvuu4aUDJ5bI6KZYePrfCaBO89vmvJhjkqJigefSLbyCGMvwBuHI_aYpe0PfKD8-lade739sBKixvxl0SqzQhkB9jRpuPFLPqMFjpn3hyphenhyphenPjf3EQXK66pvx6UNLRb/s640/036+copye.jpg" width="600" alt="Senior Telemaster RC Airplane"/></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Photo by D. Reifsnider</td></tr>
</tbody></table>After getting back into the hobby and flying a few RTF and foam planes, I decided I wanted to build my next RC plane. It had been more than 25 years since I had built a wood model, but I excited and anxious to again give it a shot . I decided on a classic kit, the Telemaster Senior to use for my reintroduction to this lost art form. This German designed model has a long history having been first built sometime around 1967. Eventually, Hobby Lobby started importing them into the U.S.A. and they still produce the kits today as this is where I got my box of balsa from. If your interested in the STM's history you can read more about it here:<br />
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<a href="http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_10062802/anchors_10369044/mpage_1/key_/anchor/tm.htm#10369044">rcuniverse.com</a><br />
<a href="http://time.fh-augsburg.de/%7Eerd/Modellflug/download/Telemaster.pdf">Telemaster PDF</a><br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvum6Sky0sm17QuZurOnBwvaf6px1lpVYz2FNfMyN6bLgmPlMbA4v3jIvYK8t0DdIrHrAud-ST_D4UbtxQE-FZ_LRMdQl0c5Rcs-iaxHyCZdE3iHzQl-oR7SE5YTnio0fVn0LtCmTbnMVB/s1600/000_0056.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvum6Sky0sm17QuZurOnBwvaf6px1lpVYz2FNfMyN6bLgmPlMbA4v3jIvYK8t0DdIrHrAud-ST_D4UbtxQE-FZ_LRMdQl0c5Rcs-iaxHyCZdE3iHzQl-oR7SE5YTnio0fVn0LtCmTbnMVB/s320/000_0056.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>Having ordered my kit, I set about collecting the basic tools and supplies that I would need for the build. First was a level surface that would except and hold the t-pins that are used to anchor the balsa parts over the plans as you build. For this I built a 2"x4" frame to attached a piece of 5/8" high density particle board, the kind cabinet maker use. The wing span on the Tele is 95" so I built my table 4 feet long to accommodate each wing panel. It might have been nice to have a larger table, but my space was limited. My original thought was to cover the table top with an acoustic ceiling tile as they are fairly level and will easily accept t-pins. Problem was I could not find a supply store that would sell me an individual tile, they all wanted me to buy a $70 box of tiles. So if the big wigs at Lowes or Home Depot are out there, take your box of tiles and... Well I digress. To solve this problem I chose to put a 1/8" layer of luan over the top and anchor it with small paneling nails. This worked fine.<br />
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Here is a list of the basic tools I scrounged up.<br />
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<b>#11 X-Acto Knife</b> and a box of 100 blades. Be sure to take a piece of tape and wrap it around the handle sticking the two ends of the tape together creating a flag. This will keep the knife from rolling off the table. It's not a pleasant sight to look down and see a knife sticking out of the top of your foot, ask me how I know.<br />
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<b>Razor Saw</b>, X-Acto makes one as does Zona. A mitre box is also nice to have. This saw and the knife will be your main tools for cutting all your wood.<br />
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<b>T-Pins</b> in various sizes. These are used to anchor parts together and down to the building board.<br />
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<b>Clamps</b>, lots of them. I found quite a few types of small clamps at Harbor Freight. While not the best quality, they are cheap. Another option would be a magnetic building board which I did use for assembling my fuselage, but I'll get to that later.<br />
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<b>Glue</b>, the instructions call for any type of wood glue. I used Titebond II as that's what I had on hand. If I had it to do over I believe I would have rather had the original Titebond formula as it's water soluble and excess glue clean up would be easier. I also used Zap gap filling CA in a few places where pieces were hard to get a clamp on. 30 minute epoxy is needed for joining the wing halves together if your building a one piece wing like I have.<br />
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<b>Wax Paper</b> and <b>Scotch tape</b>. Used to cover your plans as the wing, stab and fuselage are built directly over them. <br />
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<b>Q-Tips</b> and <b>Paper Towels</b>. Used to clean up excess glue squeeze out.<br />
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<b>Sandpaper</b>, in various grits from #60 to #150. I mostly used 60grit as it is very course and shapes balsa quickly. The finer grades will be used prior to covering to get a smooth surface. I created sanding blocks by cutting strips of high density particle board 1-1/2"x8"x3/4 and used CA to glue the sandpaper to them. I also made a few smaller block using various sizes of hardwoods.<br />
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<b>Power Tools</b>, While the hand tools above will get you going and are are all you need for the majority of the build, you will need a hand drill and bits. A drill press is even nicer. My jigsaw came in very handy. I mounted it to a thin board and flipped it upside down on a couple of sawhorses to make it stationary (see photo below). This setup worked very well. I also used a dremel tool with with a cut off wheel and grinding to fabricate some of the aluminum pieces I used I needed.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtaW5E-UzGsNy9SR2EmAvXfpbPrcyWidAg2yo60ACCq1dL4OULFr8_Ak7AxvPtwN8tOoNlPA6UICwZR9qwlPyU6cpmH0dWjWseoH4rg2NE-lHd6uhZ4498J34EYUKwOwISbH5QyGOFw20X/s1600/118_1388.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtaW5E-UzGsNy9SR2EmAvXfpbPrcyWidAg2yo60ACCq1dL4OULFr8_Ak7AxvPtwN8tOoNlPA6UICwZR9qwlPyU6cpmH0dWjWseoH4rg2NE-lHd6uhZ4498J34EYUKwOwISbH5QyGOFw20X/s320/118_1388.JPG" width="240" /></a>After receiving my kit the next step was to cut up the plans into the different sections that I would need for building, wing panels, fuselage top and side views. I taped the first wing panel plan down to the table and covered it with wax paper. I looked all over God's green earth for transparent waxed paper that was wider than Reynold's Cut-Rrite brand of 11.9". It's not out there. So if any of the big wigs at Reynold's are out there, you can take your almost 12" wax paper and shove it up your... I digress again. Anyway, I pieced together the wax paper and covered the plans so that they would stay clean and could be reused. The other views I taped to the wall above the table so that I could refer to them throughout the build.<br />
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To get started, I had to take my X-Acto knife and cut around all the die cuts of the ribs. I then stacked them together and gang sanded them smooth.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiddlayueDseHEnj5l5AgAXMdc0lzSricb-WtvqqL5U1yP0eLD9A_Hy35fbK_Y0Y-x8jJFfmwWUkTPRWGL6kqQa7b6YZfgH0hVoKVFOlwFhe0OYvW62F3LN7r7nDPP0995oiJJyJd6dQ9zO/s1600/IMG_0001.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiddlayueDseHEnj5l5AgAXMdc0lzSricb-WtvqqL5U1yP0eLD9A_Hy35fbK_Y0Y-x8jJFfmwWUkTPRWGL6kqQa7b6YZfgH0hVoKVFOlwFhe0OYvW62F3LN7r7nDPP0995oiJJyJd6dQ9zO/s320/IMG_0001.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br />
I have to say that the die cutting in this kit looked like it was done with a garden trowel. It was terrible. The wood in the kit was also poor and I had to contact Hobby Lobby to get them to send me replacement sticks of some items. At this point is was basically just following the steps in the instruction manual. Anchor the spars to the building board and start gluing the ribs into place. One thing to note here, I found the plans to be a bad as the wood. The lines were extremely warped and twisted. so be sure you have a long straight edge to use when putting the spars down. Don't trust the lines on the drawings to be straight.<br />
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Here are a few pictures of the progress on the wing.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYBZyPKxl_-5S8LU_7hArvEMGGyndeuate75ZFSD24QCEKpyQSheT4mYXb5t0IjN9wg1l9KpTDa6Z1vtm_Fhg6PDIzw_1XB1zuajXCjkXVQir7b9Uq09proPYu90O7K144BrawsR7u5SlK/s1600/000_0057.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYBZyPKxl_-5S8LU_7hArvEMGGyndeuate75ZFSD24QCEKpyQSheT4mYXb5t0IjN9wg1l9KpTDa6Z1vtm_Fhg6PDIzw_1XB1zuajXCjkXVQir7b9Uq09proPYu90O7K144BrawsR7u5SlK/s320/000_0057.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>Here the rear spar is pinned down and I'm using ribs to establish the location for the center spar and leading edge before I pin them down. I used a metal straight to align the trailing edge as the plan lines are not straight.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgM4yHjfKeSnSGw4M9onnN2PSBXQWIkRJvMhrXFVaB2UFhgHCbG-UHLYndq0NkSzqv0X44jzcAjdcjnYOm8otGkFkR7JczjZwXPigLCRvu5H4gS2m9NEiswnlmwVmYUkjwR_0JJLwMhq8sw/s1600/000_0058.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgM4yHjfKeSnSGw4M9onnN2PSBXQWIkRJvMhrXFVaB2UFhgHCbG-UHLYndq0NkSzqv0X44jzcAjdcjnYOm8otGkFkR7JczjZwXPigLCRvu5H4gS2m9NEiswnlmwVmYUkjwR_0JJLwMhq8sw/s320/000_0058.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7WK3xl5KL1Xlhc7MCnI3efHjXx23osXlulIzGBAjUJS7swQbLSpvHoWYNuur1PHvSooA6zm3HS6Ya5c5H4-25azzHIrtrYca0jCnlLfBMVOnxfBQfKeDnrZYIKYhNaFGwYScyhIIy8H_Z/s1600/000_0060.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7WK3xl5KL1Xlhc7MCnI3efHjXx23osXlulIzGBAjUJS7swQbLSpvHoWYNuur1PHvSooA6zm3HS6Ya5c5H4-25azzHIrtrYca0jCnlLfBMVOnxfBQfKeDnrZYIKYhNaFGwYScyhIIy8H_Z/s320/000_0060.JPG" width="240" /></a></div><br />
Once the spars, leading edge and trailing edge are located and pinned down, I then started working from one end to the other gluing the ribs into place. I used a square to be sure each rib was 90 degrees to the work surface.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhB6OrhspsWw63QKnSHnlbwCDu4C1SsBJ5vfHB1LurL7W7whLsMWQBu0ihwvBvbIZeNIbmNxB4udxCIw5CiPDsWbjgLY8TSumOT39upHog3btl0P_JZCmrE2L-aKyrjQzo-qHG43S2wiIUT/s1600/104_1308.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhB6OrhspsWw63QKnSHnlbwCDu4C1SsBJ5vfHB1LurL7W7whLsMWQBu0ihwvBvbIZeNIbmNxB4udxCIw5CiPDsWbjgLY8TSumOT39upHog3btl0P_JZCmrE2L-aKyrjQzo-qHG43S2wiIUT/s400/104_1308.JPG" width="400" /></a></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjuHYfgZfG7rgEeThSfExLgoL9EPsuoWHhH8CsJil-OQS2AkX9EB6l0kzmpIgFCbP9ZIlEkgBsxWFNDSkWxRRf5PlJ5ymUDJpw3GvUN9FZb8N8LxaqGTrw8rps3P3n8iwYznsV-0VAyzK9b/s1600/100_1313.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjuHYfgZfG7rgEeThSfExLgoL9EPsuoWHhH8CsJil-OQS2AkX9EB6l0kzmpIgFCbP9ZIlEkgBsxWFNDSkWxRRf5PlJ5ymUDJpw3GvUN9FZb8N8LxaqGTrw8rps3P3n8iwYznsV-0VAyzK9b/s400/100_1313.JPG" width="400" /></a></div><br />
My first modification to this model was to strengthen the wing by adding 1/2"x1/2"x3/32" triangle gussets to the ribs at the trailing edge. I added one at the top and bottom of each rib on both sides.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhn10Mac76tzZwOcp6eK1c8MHksxXhyphenhyphen833SdaOPQ7mSRBQKMtXbNMEsDH-Ih1lKq9GbBfN5NJ016OlWiGu8nHKmJJwZQG9PS81OsnrTbiBsTTYpiBXrf149we3ZHvt3_Lsy5-GIgyEmJJve/s1600/112_1371.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhn10Mac76tzZwOcp6eK1c8MHksxXhyphenhyphen833SdaOPQ7mSRBQKMtXbNMEsDH-Ih1lKq9GbBfN5NJ016OlWiGu8nHKmJJwZQG9PS81OsnrTbiBsTTYpiBXrf149we3ZHvt3_Lsy5-GIgyEmJJve/s400/112_1371.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Wing Gussets</td></tr>
</tbody></table><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">The inboard rib of each wing panel is angled towards the wing tip. This angle is established using a template on the drawings. Instead of cutting the template out of the plans, I laid a piece of paper over the plans and traced the outline of the template. I then used this pattern to create a balsa wood template to use for setting the center rib angle. I also wanted to do away with the rubber band mounting of the wing, so I created a center wing doubler out of 1/8" G10 material that has a tab that slides into a slot cut into the #2 bulkhead to hold the wing in the front. The rear of the wing will be held on with 1/4" bolts. The pictures below show the doubler being glued into place.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihojLyMxDo1jjb5sVAMIncbT6SVOGS7cSi5UfZU3byr7a0zxMW_TXqQxJsDHtRuQJ_HBnKhZZhLbjrMwoDr0ZF0ajNYYBhDfwrwB6dZo5dFGzoXEaSZQcAv3xqWWPeIKrR5Nudi9vyn7nA/s1600/116_1374.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihojLyMxDo1jjb5sVAMIncbT6SVOGS7cSi5UfZU3byr7a0zxMW_TXqQxJsDHtRuQJ_HBnKhZZhLbjrMwoDr0ZF0ajNYYBhDfwrwB6dZo5dFGzoXEaSZQcAv3xqWWPeIKrR5Nudi9vyn7nA/s400/116_1374.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">G10 Wing Doubler</td></tr>
</tbody></table><br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_KpOYCYvQUqInhpQTxzK8Wk7zEMG_zdWY9uM_KPiViOv6J0SYB1fq4yXVL6dU4wozcneRT2xzOKx6bHJzfa6Gy4z7euyIcqGtaNklPpvmaQxFLgcVLX1xfIf-ytNYjft9yJfLQ29FzBnA/s1600/116_1375.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_KpOYCYvQUqInhpQTxzK8Wk7zEMG_zdWY9uM_KPiViOv6J0SYB1fq4yXVL6dU4wozcneRT2xzOKx6bHJzfa6Gy4z7euyIcqGtaNklPpvmaQxFLgcVLX1xfIf-ytNYjft9yJfLQ29FzBnA/s400/116_1375.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>The wing tips are glued into place using a template from the plans to set the correct angle. I also used this template to mark the tip angle on the struts so they could be cut to the proper angle.<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8xRaSryhDUWkCzw-r2CigaSNWj9sNRwYXzxZMxGCCx-eqoop_GYDAbD_qEoGRq03ceiRNANBWYeHagDr9RXhThkxturfaKyk5gLcK2bICuo7DoUKwXb4fqrVHQjbF2DStu6fZ9eG2t7tM/s1600/IMG_0011+%25284%2529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8xRaSryhDUWkCzw-r2CigaSNWj9sNRwYXzxZMxGCCx-eqoop_GYDAbD_qEoGRq03ceiRNANBWYeHagDr9RXhThkxturfaKyk5gLcK2bICuo7DoUKwXb4fqrVHQjbF2DStu6fZ9eG2t7tM/s400/IMG_0011+%25284%2529.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Wing Tip Angle</td></tr>
</tbody></table><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-tmywjKA3um2S7hCwGtYyPfjLQFHtD3YG2dPyuApUXW_2BpSGvbM6lGquU4QtfDjHdGFTpQZgtBiEljN5S35kVSMfVauE619qNpqQE1EIVB1cMbxVEd_tt33f-d8gGG40C8-EBqXCXLFb/s1600/112_1369.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-tmywjKA3um2S7hCwGtYyPfjLQFHtD3YG2dPyuApUXW_2BpSGvbM6lGquU4QtfDjHdGFTpQZgtBiEljN5S35kVSMfVauE619qNpqQE1EIVB1cMbxVEd_tt33f-d8gGG40C8-EBqXCXLFb/s400/112_1369.JPG" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Wing Tip Glued and Clamped<br />
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<div style="text-align: left;">The original plans call for a single aileron servo with dual linkage to control both left and right ailerons. I decided to change this and have separate servo for each aileron. This required that I box in a center portion of each wing in order to mount these servos.</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br />
</div></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"></td> </tr>
</tbody></table><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxXw0dekMbU0toM98VxIoD8_d18VWkkh_kfsr4Q_AhI0Poim4HK8dWJohThVIFQ7OYem_9QuE_Gpu8_35jKmKs8OFXBN9PYKOMbGQ1PeaLZL607MUHDs9OfkPW5dHEuFFfeZ_3zgGDr5Y4/s1600/104_1309.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEsWYIluPd76teHXThX9i2k06veOpRTI5nBqNzwVg4YWuzSYqgwyYJwMP08gWlOXgh7hwMFO-xidjs1zaVObza_m4jiuYkOB-j6TDwxx_Cr7vS8oyiXRKoky_C14qGBR3PJGcMm0NxkSFk/s1600/116_1376.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEsWYIluPd76teHXThX9i2k06veOpRTI5nBqNzwVg4YWuzSYqgwyYJwMP08gWlOXgh7hwMFO-xidjs1zaVObza_m4jiuYkOB-j6TDwxx_Cr7vS8oyiXRKoky_C14qGBR3PJGcMm0NxkSFk/s320/116_1376.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Aileron Servo Mounting</td></tr>
</tbody></table><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi19zf_arh1vhqCBPkBuzBQkSi5AUVtjTP1BiUVUYH_QQaOxStc-kjwh1PV36r5gxckWYmtD9FRwdlnqtLLQZ4r_XiKDv_snxgwcRXJeaJmPDbJIQKog4qQq4-FRH5jUic67A2GHNxmodw1/s1600/114_1372.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi19zf_arh1vhqCBPkBuzBQkSi5AUVtjTP1BiUVUYH_QQaOxStc-kjwh1PV36r5gxckWYmtD9FRwdlnqtLLQZ4r_XiKDv_snxgwcRXJeaJmPDbJIQKog4qQq4-FRH5jUic67A2GHNxmodw1/s320/114_1372.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Removable Aileron Servo Tray<br />
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Below you can see where I drilled holes and used green milkshake straws for a servo wire chase in the wing. </td></tr>
</tbody></table><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIhoS5diDofqIg9tYNTasO36-3MuLmln02JfabkcS8DOW9YM1czP92_0zPIjY4hjyx0pSmND9LrCoM1riKpMoGq_2gIhS9srTLYyLo_zP4xdAbv_dN0MRKjNRkSJKVbNcXGHhWtFitlmaE/s1600/116_1377.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIhoS5diDofqIg9tYNTasO36-3MuLmln02JfabkcS8DOW9YM1czP92_0zPIjY4hjyx0pSmND9LrCoM1riKpMoGq_2gIhS9srTLYyLo_zP4xdAbv_dN0MRKjNRkSJKVbNcXGHhWtFitlmaE/s320/116_1377.JPG" width="240" /></a></div><br />
Below you can see where I have glued the wing halves together and added balsa sheeting to the underside of the aft wing section.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNWNy9unSC7XB3_Gtba3ZSxLmqtvSShQBscnEFhYY85fbMfmfLDdKyo8Rk09Ndf6pFPdgROuU-AofHRxB4p73rdn9fHaV5xzEgYj-niT9Cvf73aYlkSTe6TAvqzos8oV2BCdPhYWuW9hZ8/s1600/118_1386.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNWNy9unSC7XB3_Gtba3ZSxLmqtvSShQBscnEFhYY85fbMfmfLDdKyo8Rk09Ndf6pFPdgROuU-AofHRxB4p73rdn9fHaV5xzEgYj-niT9Cvf73aYlkSTe6TAvqzos8oV2BCdPhYWuW9hZ8/s320/118_1386.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br />
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Once the wing halves had been glued together, I wanted to reinforce the rear of the wing where it would be bolted to the fuselage. I did this by fabricating an aluminum brace that I glued at the rear of the wing.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiU1zBZDXnnYIIrJuyYsm9UTXYjcp8TvpWj3OLO_DDh0dV4n-1JzxZv_x7oN8ywIv9X0fvSkMoGZwXsmX8cO-UaxawZHOScOrS2dyOxVzOrB7_bmR7RkZoRMFjeUa7wUncLEJa9iV-_xIec/s1600/118_1383.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiU1zBZDXnnYIIrJuyYsm9UTXYjcp8TvpWj3OLO_DDh0dV4n-1JzxZv_x7oN8ywIv9X0fvSkMoGZwXsmX8cO-UaxawZHOScOrS2dyOxVzOrB7_bmR7RkZoRMFjeUa7wUncLEJa9iV-_xIec/s320/118_1383.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Fabricated Brace</td></tr>
</tbody></table><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdAEfSQmZa4LUjvY9NGrsQu-QHZVZIoKunY0qad3o94NreIudXE5QYQVXAwnoS7gktpVsIpMMUQcleUBB5RPFjD2jV8uOTI0AumMN8i_UV5UY8bnsWxVS7LXv_eBhObAyb5ZzaMBC7uGTE/s1600/118_1381.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdAEfSQmZa4LUjvY9NGrsQu-QHZVZIoKunY0qad3o94NreIudXE5QYQVXAwnoS7gktpVsIpMMUQcleUBB5RPFjD2jV8uOTI0AumMN8i_UV5UY8bnsWxVS7LXv_eBhObAyb5ZzaMBC7uGTE/s320/118_1381.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Installed Wing Brace</td></tr>
</tbody></table><br />
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Next step was to move on to fabricating the tail feathers, better known as the stabilizer, elevator, fin and rudder. I will go over this in part two of this post.<br />
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<ol><li><a href="http://rcmodman.blogspot.com/2011/06/senior-telemaster-build-part-one.html"> Part One, Wing <--YOU ARE HERE</a></li>
<li><a href="http://rcmodman.blogspot.com/2011/07/senior-telemaster-build-tail-feathers.html">Part Two, Tail Feathers</a></li>
<li><a href="http://rcmodman.blogspot.com/2011/08/senior-telemaster-build-part-3-fuselage.html">Part Three, Fuselage</a></li>
<li><a href="http://rcmodman.blogspot.com/2011/08/senior-telemaster-build-wing-struts.html">Part Four, Wing Struts</a></li>
<li><a href="http://rcmodman.blogspot.com/2011/08/senior-telemaster-build-wing-attachment.html">Part Five, Wing Attachment</a></li>
<li><a href="http://rcmodman.blogspot.com/2011/08/senior-telemaster-build-power-and-fuel.html">Part Six, Power and Fuel</a></li>
</ol>Chuck Petershttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09726983071505840260noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3019883017809347133.post-80934966380219568042011-03-09T14:32:00.000-08:002011-09-01T20:20:58.432-07:00Landing Gear Struts On The ParkZone T28<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVU5Tu8x5WDuCAY0B4iazelLPpQPucTYd8U_gK07apwDP__QeKstgIJYYtTuaj9W1GCMz4QYqDbPPL2ohYbl8RvTG_RgU1V2Xx6BwhNJGVP-UUQU5LWeOfMPqejQJKzadqpUEnqPRpNfNh/s1600/IMG_1287.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVU5Tu8x5WDuCAY0B4iazelLPpQPucTYd8U_gK07apwDP__QeKstgIJYYtTuaj9W1GCMz4QYqDbPPL2ohYbl8RvTG_RgU1V2Xx6BwhNJGVP-UUQU5LWeOfMPqejQJKzadqpUEnqPRpNfNh/s320/IMG_1287.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>I recently purchased a Parkzone T28 from Horizon Hobby. All I can say is WOW! What a fun model to fly.<br />
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As seems to be typical, as soon as I bought this jewel the weather went South as we had nothing but rain and high winds for a month or so. Being as I love to tinker with stuff, I decided while I was grounded I would do some modifications to the landing gear. I started by adding plastic strut covers to the nose and both main gear. They are very easy to install and really add some scale detail to the spindly stock wire struts.<br />
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I started by ordering <a href="http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0095p?FVPROFIL=++&FVSEARCH=LXET62&search=Go">Robart part #106 from Tower Hobbies</a>. These covers required that I trim a little off the top of the main struts and only a inch or so off the nose gear one. At first I tried to use the original wheels, axles and retaining nuts, but the covers reduced the axle length and I felt there was too much binding and the retaining nuts could not be threaded on enough that I was sure the wheels would not come off in air. Because of this I chose to extend the axles by soldering on a length of 1/8" brass tubing over the stock wires. I then used two round retaining collars to secure the wheels.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-BCXL2aDfl8jjtoZZUHSGmrFyluAIrZIaeYXsmC7gnsM4Zp9PqhIiqqQQwsvZxutybCy7KWE68DPnsTyStJKzY1Nv2o9PF4nBCuAn8UFdZiHwXbsFn9OcItCKQubZrefSne3KZPpZtP9s/s1600/IMG_1226.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-BCXL2aDfl8jjtoZZUHSGmrFyluAIrZIaeYXsmC7gnsM4Zp9PqhIiqqQQwsvZxutybCy7KWE68DPnsTyStJKzY1Nv2o9PF4nBCuAn8UFdZiHwXbsFn9OcItCKQubZrefSne3KZPpZtP9s/s320/IMG_1226.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>To the left you can see the axle extension. I had to take a Dremel tool with a sanding drum and sand down the wire axle slightly to get the brass tube to slide over it. This resulted in a tight fit and with a bit of solder applied to finish things up, I don't have to worry about the axle coming off. Once the axle was done, I mounted the covers. It takes a little finessing to get the retaining rings and cap over the covers, but it can be done where there is very little gap between the top of the cover and the bottom of the wing.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRcZbWAwY1ncG8TkXjJAO9CnR55qbRrymUMvsV6Mn41HJdOm2glv_z21dwlkMuWR1TFzB0G_BfYfQ6XZygK5O7rbE3ymNyvdABCIQ74ebTNJSUWX6DVYSHEz7MLlNlvKoITevY_VF-ktxz/s1600/IMG_1233.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear:left; float:left;margin-right:1em; margin-bottom:1em"><img border="0" height="240" width="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRcZbWAwY1ncG8TkXjJAO9CnR55qbRrymUMvsV6Mn41HJdOm2glv_z21dwlkMuWR1TFzB0G_BfYfQ6XZygK5O7rbE3ymNyvdABCIQ74ebTNJSUWX6DVYSHEz7MLlNlvKoITevY_VF-ktxz/s320/IMG_1233.JPG" /></a></div>To the Left you see one of the main struts after it has been painted. Also notice the inner retaining collar which helps keep the strut cover aligned and secured. The collar also acts to keep the wheel from binding against the strut cover. For a finishing touch, I added a small strip of chrome tape to the center section of the strut to give it the appearance of a hydraulic piston that you would see on a full scale strut. <br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQI_oXLH19TOiGD9aThqICoBCRGj3-hxH72Q3S-VJKJ8dUXYky5LZmfcprimorq51IGGUX-eZ1hxUY-Ovn3bIrHNDpk0kD2bnZY6GkaBzyhSrwGyxem-XQtJoFGOFGTtmDoOjMgOgZ03PF/s1600/IMG_1291.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear:left; float:left;margin-right:1em; margin-bottom:1em"><img border="0" height="240" width="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQI_oXLH19TOiGD9aThqICoBCRGj3-hxH72Q3S-VJKJ8dUXYky5LZmfcprimorq51IGGUX-eZ1hxUY-Ovn3bIrHNDpk0kD2bnZY6GkaBzyhSrwGyxem-XQtJoFGOFGTtmDoOjMgOgZ03PF/s320/IMG_1291.JPG" /></a></div>I also changed out the stock wheels to 2-3/4" diameter Dubro lite wheels as I will be flying her off a grass runway. One final item I did on the main gear was to apply packing tape over the plastic plates that hold the wire gear to the wing. I've read that these plates are known to pull loose on a hard landing. Many suggest you pull the plates off and re-glue them to the foam using epoxy but as mine seemed pretty secure, I chose to tape them <a href="http://www.amazon.com/Scotch%C2%AE-Extreme-8959-RD-Inches-Yards/dp/B001AFKV0S/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top">Scotch® Extreme Tape</a> for now.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj08p5L34KhmwGSgnlZEs9gHTGMP9oYx7jPN2XSeiGxq1Dy1ZJKbueKdRQqTbTPf2GqzPmPAgpgIyYM-femcrtR_lFHaFftemYglkkfuExPtYVDH91VtlxJk5JATxcTbg3iDBbcYKWiRMjc/s1600/IMG_1295.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear:left; float:left;margin-right:1em; margin-bottom:1em"><img border="0" height="240" width="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj08p5L34KhmwGSgnlZEs9gHTGMP9oYx7jPN2XSeiGxq1Dy1ZJKbueKdRQqTbTPf2GqzPmPAgpgIyYM-femcrtR_lFHaFftemYglkkfuExPtYVDH91VtlxJk5JATxcTbg3iDBbcYKWiRMjc/s320/IMG_1295.JPG" /></a></div>This stuff has fibers running both directions and is as tough as they come. Great tape for any RC repairs. <br />
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All in all I'm quite pleased with this modification. The struts look great and the larger wheels are excellent for use on a grass field.Chuck Petershttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09726983071505840260noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3019883017809347133.post-90901808891449361132011-03-09T10:26:00.000-08:002011-08-03T11:33:13.684-07:00Radian Pro Wing Modification<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSjlJHd_8sDaGrofICkP3IVE3D35PWBjkYon2tfRlDLCHmWkwFbelgiLK-LJgYaq8JYBMKUSjBPtFctV3Wi7-s_PdK7_x1QqucutRJLiP3lLA9mr8ChC8LzxCpUdL1fruWbA0KasRcZn1R/s1600/IMG_1270.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSjlJHd_8sDaGrofICkP3IVE3D35PWBjkYon2tfRlDLCHmWkwFbelgiLK-LJgYaq8JYBMKUSjBPtFctV3Wi7-s_PdK7_x1QqucutRJLiP3lLA9mr8ChC8LzxCpUdL1fruWbA0KasRcZn1R/s320/IMG_1270.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>This is by far the best modification I've done to my Radian Pro. The idea came about after suffering the frustrations encountered while assembling the wings of the Pro. You have to fish servo wires through the wing openings, then take a pair of pliers and grab the wire ends and pull them up into the radio compartment. You have to do this for both the flap wires and aileron wires. Anyone who has ever done this knows how much a pain in the ass this task is.<br />
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After doing this chore a few times, I vowed to find an easier way. First I tried making a a wire lasso that I could put down through the radio compartment and out through the wing slot. I then could lasso the aileron and flap wires and pull them up for attachment to the receiver. This works better, but still not a perfect solution and had me worried I would wear out the pins on my receiver as they are not designed for this kind of abuse.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgeADrCtSgo7ZwUP70BWtDAMn95FvhtxURP0cmEi03_lA-_pbHQ37dvPv6FH-3iXK091irzQi8gp9Jwi7ZIagg2cm8MsYN2F5dC4VsiMIiSytj1cLkNtnuk3S5g7d_XPa8ZQ-sFnPrkmefI/s1600/IMG_1252.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgeADrCtSgo7ZwUP70BWtDAMn95FvhtxURP0cmEi03_lA-_pbHQ37dvPv6FH-3iXK091irzQi8gp9Jwi7ZIagg2cm8MsYN2F5dC4VsiMIiSytj1cLkNtnuk3S5g7d_XPa8ZQ-sFnPrkmefI/s320/IMG_1252.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>After questioning others on how they dealt with this issue, I decided the best solution would be to take two servo extensions, Plug one into the receiver for the left aileron, the other to the left flap and then remove the connectors on the other end of the extensions and incorporate both wires into one plug, a deans four pin connector.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwjwfUB96Vcx89I6aq_eJd-9KdMG1pdnKWyx7jnsKPsPIr66fNCdV5Enq1y4XYx-AeK-Wz7yK3L9QaCKIaNSsjpo1_Qs_BQtjD7hOYFt5J2qZHJCs5krHl7z8FiXzIL164XVHeubNkWrli/s1600/WSD1241-450.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwjwfUB96Vcx89I6aq_eJd-9KdMG1pdnKWyx7jnsKPsPIr66fNCdV5Enq1y4XYx-AeK-Wz7yK3L9QaCKIaNSsjpo1_Qs_BQtjD7hOYFt5J2qZHJCs5krHl7z8FiXzIL164XVHeubNkWrli/s200/WSD1241-450.jpg" width="200" /></a></div>I would also have to remove the connectors from the wing servos and shorten those wires, adding a matching four pin connector to those wires as well. Once done, I was able to slide the wings on the spar up to the point they enter the fuselage, plug in only one connector, finish sliding the wing and bolt it up. Do this for both sides and I'm done. <br />
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Here is a photo taken during the process of soldering both servo extensions to the four pin deans. I purchased the connectors from Horizon Hobby and they come with the shrink tubing shown.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhH5G05UYq2_UPE98P2RFMHx7afz4j-THUUYXPitczOqOgkvQZ95RDyyd3IeQh-AkxZPZPEibN7PLPY9x8aZbwpN-1Bu1h9G5sEjb4Tzgs8OhgCVVaqpln-Vm858CoBXs7R2vI2yjmxjdv9/s1600/IMG_1222.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhH5G05UYq2_UPE98P2RFMHx7afz4j-THUUYXPitczOqOgkvQZ95RDyyd3IeQh-AkxZPZPEibN7PLPY9x8aZbwpN-1Bu1h9G5sEjb4Tzgs8OhgCVVaqpln-Vm858CoBXs7R2vI2yjmxjdv9/s400/IMG_1222.JPG" width="400" /></a></div><br />
Notice how both red(positive) wires are added to one pin of the connector and both black wires are soldered together and ready to be attached to a single pin of the connector. The other two pins will have a signal(yellow or white) wire attached to them, one from the flap channel and one from the aileron channel. In order to strip the wires back for soldering I take a #11 exacto blade and just lightly nick the wire insulation about 3/16" back from the end and then take my finger nails and pull the rest of the insulation off. If you plan on doing a lot of servo work you could invest in a set of wire strippers that will do 22-30 gage wire. I believe the wires on the Radian Pro are 22 gage. For the soldering I used this <a href="http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062738">30 watt iron from from Radio Shack</a>. I would have liked to have something with a smaller tip and a little less heat, but I was able to accomplish the job with the Radio Shack iron. If I run across any other servo wiring job in the future I will more than likely buy <a href="http://www.amazon.com/Weller-WM120-120v-Pencil-Soldering/dp/B0000WT586/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1299700499&sr=8-2">this soldering iron</a>.<br />
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You will do the same thing for the the connector that you add to the servo wires in the wing. Start by peeling back the tape that covers the wing wires by a couple of inches. Then lay the connector on the wing so that the pins extend past the end of the wing. Now cut your servo wires so they are the right length for your connector in this position. Then you will need to take an exacto blade and cut out a small area of foam so that the connector lays flush with the surface of the wing. Once this is done, strip back your wires, twist both reds together, both black wires together and then tin all four wires with solder. Before you solder the wires to your connector, be sure to slide a piece of shrink tubing over the wires prior to soldering them to the pins.<br />
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While this modification involves working with and soldering small servo wires which can be a bit tricky, in the long run I found the time invested to be well worth the effort. It's much easier to assembly and disassemble my Radian at the field.<br />
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P.S.<br />
Here is a wiring diagram of the deans 4 pin connectors used in this mod. The colors reflect those found on the RP wing servo wires. The servo wires I used in the demo are Hitec extensions that are coded: Red(Positive), Black(Negative) and White(Signal)<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCH8635bG4euJXzF8OdB9sIu0f783oZgksXIBWC1TijYO0gUr-kosQ6HreJ_z4Vru3dMGBKLv2Gnjrd8LStk9iD7kudP-uQlr7xXTcdcbMDEMABl-kleSf6JuGLQukK8-eQrAsHi1Qlwpl/s1600/deans4pinwiring.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="242" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCH8635bG4euJXzF8OdB9sIu0f783oZgksXIBWC1TijYO0gUr-kosQ6HreJ_z4Vru3dMGBKLv2Gnjrd8LStk9iD7kudP-uQlr7xXTcdcbMDEMABl-kleSf6JuGLQukK8-eQrAsHi1Qlwpl/s400/deans4pinwiring.png" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Click Image for Larger View</td></tr>
</tbody></table>Chuck Petershttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09726983071505840260noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3019883017809347133.post-76505070813165013172011-02-02T07:55:00.000-08:002011-08-03T11:32:31.881-07:00Adding a External BEC to the Radian ProThe Radian Pro comes with a Eflite 30A ESC that incorporates a 5.5V switch-mode BEC(battery elimination circuit). Rated at 700mA continuous service, many seem to think is not adequate to handle the servo system requirements. Even Eflite's own engineers state in their instruction manual that it "Drives up to 5 analog or 4 digital sub-micro-sized servos." The Pro has 6 servos, two ailerons, two flaps and of course the rudder and elevator. Also, I have seen where pilots with on board telemetry have reported current levels in excess of the .7 amp rating.<br />
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Reading the online forums it seemed to me that too many pilot's are reporting brownouts and lose of control of their RP's. If a new RP owner had received his plane with control rod linkage as binding as mine originally were, and he chose to fly it that way, he could have problems. The excess load caused by this binding as well as powering to many servos could overload the BEC and the next thing you know, they no longer have control of their sailplane.<br />
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Taking all this into consideration, I decided to replace the internal .7 amp BEC with a Castle Creations 10amp external BEC. The following video shows how I did this.<br />
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<iframe title="YouTube video player" class="youtube-player" type="text/html" width="425" height="349" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/nioiYlk0Td4" frameborder="0" allowFullScreen></iframe><br />
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While this modification may not be absolutely necessary, it sure makes me more comfortable knowing I'm not going to lose my aircraft to a overload situation of the BEC.Chuck Petershttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09726983071505840260noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3019883017809347133.post-3348615127238836992011-01-06T08:07:00.000-08:002011-08-03T11:31:35.331-07:00Radian Pro E3B Connectors changed to XT60's<!– google_ad_section_start –><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhihDV1Bd8y3g5ez_CRptEKM2kEcjflXXLyhXhRb2S0tvd-35UOJGhpsjuDAaHbNaPfOETqlM062I9UC6ogLVkma5Z7k7oaUO8hQ2zCjtXJHjO2HcRsMbu23kv10lJ1L86ntiNtCPMVmsvx/s1600/XT60_620px.JPG" title=”XT60 lipo battery connector for RC sailplanes” imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="133" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhihDV1Bd8y3g5ez_CRptEKM2kEcjflXXLyhXhRb2S0tvd-35UOJGhpsjuDAaHbNaPfOETqlM062I9UC6ogLVkma5Z7k7oaUO8hQ2zCjtXJHjO2HcRsMbu23kv10lJ1L86ntiNtCPMVmsvx/s200/XT60_620px.JPG" width="200" /></a></div><br />
One of the first changes I made to the stock Radian Pro RC sailplane was to cut off the blue E3B connectors on the speed controller and solder on a new XT60. I found that while trying to disconnect the E3B that I nearly pulled the ESC out of the plane because it was so hard to pull apart.<br />
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I've switched all my RC toys over to these type connectors as I've found them to be much more reliable and of better quality than both Dean's and the E3B connectors found on the stock Radian Pro.<br />
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Made from nylon and gold plated spring connectors that are installed during the injection molding process, the XT60 gives you a solid high amp connection that is perfect for applications up to 65 amp. <br />
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I get mine off of Ebay from <a href="http://myworld.ebay.com/backbaycomputerguy/">backbaycomputerguy</a>. The connectors Chris sells are not cheap spin offs , but of the highest quality available and he will sell you just one or as many as you might want.<br />
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If you know how to solder, I highly recommend you try them, you won't be disappointed.<br />
<!– google_ad_section_end –>Chuck Petershttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09726983071505840260noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3019883017809347133.post-61390874068556531672011-01-05T09:18:00.000-08:002011-08-03T11:32:02.733-07:00Radian Pro RC Sailplane Motor Problems<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhimnru0BeczcsXwO1dKO5tRpyfRDCz9HrBRyLrzokaNvRxLBY9QIw25J70g0Cy_b2h68qtrbFdMkf819cRKOjYLbPC7uF5ZG2bpiu5N51gdVxBO-Axx72mzs9PqS41393QtQZRKKTW-7Sl/s1600/PKZ4716-250.jpg" title=”Motor from Radian Pro RC sailplane” imageanchor="1" style="clear:left; float:left;margin-right:1em; margin-bottom:1em"><img border="0" height="250" width="250" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhimnru0BeczcsXwO1dKO5tRpyfRDCz9HrBRyLrzokaNvRxLBY9QIw25J70g0Cy_b2h68qtrbFdMkf819cRKOjYLbPC7uF5ZG2bpiu5N51gdVxBO-Axx72mzs9PqS41393QtQZRKKTW-7Sl/s400/PKZ4716-250.jpg" /></a></div><!– google_ad_section_start –><br />
You may have read that the new Radian Pro is seriously under powered and that it has a motor problem. The Pro was advertised as having the same motor as the original Radian, just by exterior looks, this is not so. When the new motor has been run along side the old Radian motor hooked up to a watts meter, the new motor pulls 12-13 amps where the original Radian motor would pull up to 19amps. Horizon Hobby did some testing and came to the conclusion that the difference in amperage was not due to the motor but due to a manufacturing defect in the prop.<br />
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If you have a new radian and are not satisfied with the climb performance of your ship, call HH and request a new prop. In most cases this has fixed the power problem.<br />
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Horizon Hobby<br />
1-800-338-4639<br />
<!– google_ad_section_end –>Chuck Petershttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09726983071505840260noreply@blogger.com0